Sunday 5th December
Sam and I have just surfed Jan Juc and we arrive at Torquay about ten past twelve. Sam heads straight for the water and I follow him looking forward at this stage to just sitting on the grass at Torquay and watching Sam surfing. Torquay's a hugely popular beach and part of that is probably due just to how picturesque it is - you've got the cliffs on the headland with a great Ocean walk, the grassy hill leading from the car park down to the beach and a nice wide stretch of sandy beach.
Sam heads out just down from the surf club and gets out quickly. The surf is smallish with the odd, maybe 3/4 meter of a wave. Sam is now quite a way out and I can see him trying to paddle onto a few waves and he is now getting them - I think he may be drifting a bit and decide I'm to edgy on the beach and he's too far out. Nothing to do but back to car, get changed and head out.
I'm out and in the surf at probably 12.30 and it's a great choice. Sam greets me about half way out to tell me he got the best wave of his life and the ride went on forever (isn't that the same for all of us when we're the only ones who experience the wave!). We both get out the back quickly and I get on a small wave and am most pleased because I get up quickly and smoothly and although the ride is really short I am looking for the next wave almost straight away. Sam get's a couple of waves - mostly whitewater but he gets up and seems to be managing to turn the Board and he's really enjoying surfing. I catch probably three more waves in the next 15 mins and there pretty small and short waves but it's great fun. I nearly behead a bodyboarder as I come in on a wave into the flag area for swimmers but all in all it's been good and Break 7 is done and dusted. Sam and I head in and then it's a quick change and on the road heading to the airport. We do of course make a quick stop at Macca's for Sam to have his usual gourmet lunch- McChicken meal and chips. No surfing without junk food for this kid.
Next week its break 8 and perhaps 9 - 10 before Christmas looks easy.
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