24th December, Christmas Eve and an absolutely beautiful day - 25 and sunny with a light sw to westerly wind. The house is in peak activity mode as we have 35 people coming to lunch. Help Sue out with some furniture moving and a little bit of shopping, then it's time to evacuate as Sue's mum and sister come over to get the house in order - tables to be set up & decorated and the Turkey is being cooked. Sam and I decide to head to Point Leo and check out the front beach as we haven't surfed there before. I have been there once before and had a reasonable time. We head off about 11.15 am and leave behind Sue and her mum in heavy working mode.
Point Leo front beach has quite a few surfers out - 15 to 20 spread across 1st reef and 2nd reef. First reef is as the name implies the first reef as you hit the beach and is about 25 meters or so down from the surf club. The waves are pretty close in and the three to five blokes out there seem to having a good time. Sam wants to try further down at second reef and so down we go. The best waves at second reef are quite some way out - I reckon sixty+ meter paddle and more. We opt for the closer in waves about 20 meters off shore. The waves are peaky and not quite rolling through - the kind that make you paddle hard and then die on you. Sam tries a few and crashes and burns in the break - he is not looking happy as he paddles back out and finds a spot to himself. It's soon obvious why he has the spot to himself there are no waves!! Me, I'm trying to get on to few and get one good wave, getting up quickly and heading right down a short breaking wave and then shooting off the back in a big dive, with a yell of "oh yeah!". I feel good and start paddling back out but notice Sam is still paddling aimlessly and he then he just heads in. I follow him in and suggest we try first reef where we saw the guys getting a few earlier.
We paddle out at first reef and head out the back, all of about 15 meters and sit and wait. The waves are coming through in uneven sets and are more reforms from way out back than emerging swell, set waves. I get onto three for four great waves over about 30 mins in the water including one where Sam is paddling out and I'm coming down the face straight at him, when I go right on the wave around him and then down low and follow the break right, before turning out and paddling back to Sam with a grin on my face which clearly says to him "did you see that?". Sam gets one wave and and also gets hit in the head by his Board and is sitting on the beach having had enough shortly afterthat. I get out and suggest we try Shoreham as we could have a go at the Honeysuckle break on the left at Shoreham.
We get in the car in out wetsuits and head to Shoreham, which is only 10 minutes away. It's about 1.15 or so when we head off for Break 11.
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