Sunday 5th December is overcast & humid with a forecast for small clean waves on the west coast with an afternoon surge in the swell. It's expected to be a sunny afternoon with a temperature in the low 30s. I get Sam up a little after nine and having checked the surf we decide to try Jan Juc. Jan Juc is a beach break, right next door to Torquay and on the way to the famous Bells Beach. We leave about 9.30 and I expect to get there about 11.00 am.
We make great time and pull up at Jan Juc just before 11.00 and we are on the beach about ten past. It's small and inconsistent but the Sun's out and it's a great day to be out on the water - there's hardly any wind and I'm looking forward to just getting wet and sitting out the back. We enter the water and it doesn't take me long to realise that although it's pretty small (1/2 meter and a bit, tops) Sam is struggling to get out. The waves are dumping in quite close, with a bit of force for a 12 year old and the fact it's high tide doesn't help either. For every wave Sam gets through, the next one washes him back - he is getting frustrated and from out the back I see him paddling hard, getting over and then getting washed back.
Me, well I'm out the back and just waiting for something to catch. After about five minutes I feel set for the wave coming through and start paddling hard, it's looming up behind and I feel the rush gathering inside me. A problem is soon evident, I'm a bit under the break but I'm on - or should I say I'm on, over the front and rolled around in an embarrising stack. I look up and around and notice no one cares and see Sam sitting on the beach in a mood of frustration. I paddle in and we survey the beach and agree to walk about 20 meters right and try going out there. We go in but it's the same story for Sam - on step forward and two steps back.
For me this new location is great and I get two really good waves - short but clean rides and unusally I get up clean and fast. I'm enjoying this, but notice Sam sitting on the beach again. I head in and talk to him and suggest we go round the corner to Torquay. I let him know I won't go in as I've had a good surf and need to get changed to drive the car. It's about 12.00 when we head to Torquay and I remind Sam we will need to head back about 1.00 pm as we have to pick up Michael and his girl friend from the Airport.
Break 6 down and I feel good about 10 breaks before xmas.
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