Saturday 6th August and I head off early to go down the West Coast - I leave at about 7.00 am as I need to be back in Melbourne at midday for the football. It's a nice day in Melbourne, blue skies and a very light north wind. I get a great run and I'm heading down aroundAnglesea a little after 8.15 am. Its looks pretty flat but I pass a few people out at Hutt Gully and that gives me some hope for fairhaven.
I arrive at Fairhaven and it's very inconsistent to look at with sets a fair way apart and the waves only about 2 ft. I get changed and head out. I wait for a set to roll through and then paddle straight out the back and sit. The sun is out and like last week you can see right up the coast and it's fantastic out in the water. After what seems like ages a set comes through and I pass on the first wave and then paddle onto the second wave - I get up, go right and then the wave pretty well dumps and I get some whitewater before it reforms for a very small ride. I drop off the back and into the water - yes, it's very cold.
I paddle around for the next twenty minutes and there are two further rides I get and they are very small and after the seond I decide to call it quits. I have got to 45 breaks and with two days to go I'm not overly optimistic on my target of 50. I stop for coffee in Angelsea at the general store/cafe and the coffee was pretty ordinary. I then drive home and stop in at Torquay - Patagonia has a sale on and I will have to come back as they have such great gear.
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Sunday, July 31, 2011
Break 44 - Spout Creek
Sunday 31st July and today is a fantastic Melbourne Winter day - Sun is out, blue skies, light northerly wind and 19 degrees. There is however hardly any surf anywhere - flat or 1 to 2 ft is the forecast. I head west coast and hope to snag a wave down Fairhaven way, with perhaps a surf at Southside or Winki to get my no.s up. I leave home about 8.00 and I'm down @ Fairhaven at 9.30 and it's as flat as a tack.
I keep going past Fairhaven and come across a longboard event happening at Spout Creek about 1km further west from Fairhaven surf club - its very small and crowded there and so I go about a further 200 meters down the road and decide to give it a go. I head out about 9.45 am or so and god it's flat and I feel like a super optimist. I paddle around to keep the interest and warmth up and then about 10 minutes in a tiny swell arrives and I get onto a 1 ft wave and go right, getting down very low to make the most of the wave and then step off. Today really is all about being out on the ocean. After 15 minutes I'm really quite warm with the sun on my face and I can see all the way down the coast both ways - to the west in the distance is Lorne and in the East is the Airey's Inlet Light house. It is just beautiful out in the water and I would not be anywhere else.
I stay out in the water for about one and a quarter and hours and get probably five or 6 little waves. After about 45 minutes I'm joined by an older long boarder and on the hour by a surf school. The tide is coming in, high tide is about midday and the waves pick up the longer I'm out. I get one quite good, albeit very small, wave in to the shore and hop out to get changed. Today with the sun out and my car parked in the sun, getting changed is a breeze and this not something you normally say about getting changed in the open in July. I have really enjoyed the surf and head into Angelsea for Breakfast. I have breakfast at a very groovy little place down from the hardware store and in the car park opposite the main beach - I have a BLT and Coffee and it's very, very good. I spend the hour after brunch checking out possible surf spots without any luck - Bells flat, Steps no good and so I head home.
44 waves and one week and one day to go - 6 breaks in a week. Anything is possible I guess.
I keep going past Fairhaven and come across a longboard event happening at Spout Creek about 1km further west from Fairhaven surf club - its very small and crowded there and so I go about a further 200 meters down the road and decide to give it a go. I head out about 9.45 am or so and god it's flat and I feel like a super optimist. I paddle around to keep the interest and warmth up and then about 10 minutes in a tiny swell arrives and I get onto a 1 ft wave and go right, getting down very low to make the most of the wave and then step off. Today really is all about being out on the ocean. After 15 minutes I'm really quite warm with the sun on my face and I can see all the way down the coast both ways - to the west in the distance is Lorne and in the East is the Airey's Inlet Light house. It is just beautiful out in the water and I would not be anywhere else.
I stay out in the water for about one and a quarter and hours and get probably five or 6 little waves. After about 45 minutes I'm joined by an older long boarder and on the hour by a surf school. The tide is coming in, high tide is about midday and the waves pick up the longer I'm out. I get one quite good, albeit very small, wave in to the shore and hop out to get changed. Today with the sun out and my car parked in the sun, getting changed is a breeze and this not something you normally say about getting changed in the open in July. I have really enjoyed the surf and head into Angelsea for Breakfast. I have breakfast at a very groovy little place down from the hardware store and in the car park opposite the main beach - I have a BLT and Coffee and it's very, very good. I spend the hour after brunch checking out possible surf spots without any luck - Bells flat, Steps no good and so I head home.
44 waves and one week and one day to go - 6 breaks in a week. Anything is possible I guess.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Break 43 - Rye Back Beach
Sunday 24th July and its a very bleak, cold, rainy 9 degrees when I leave home at about 8.00 and decide I might try the East Coast and Rye back beach. I get a good run down the highway and it's about 9.10 when I pull into a car park at Rye back beach. The car park has quite a few cars in it and there are at least 8 blokes out in 1/2 to 1 metre surf. Its pretty cleab with very little wind but the waves are dumping and you need to pick the right wave. I know all this early because I sit in the car waiting for a break in the rain and the inner motivation to get changed on a freezing, wet day.
I get changed in the rain, get my board down - the McTavish 9'1'' today and head out. I wait for a set to break and then it goes flat and I head out with no worries and sit out the back. A set comes through and its breaking just before where most of the crew are sitting and the result is the need for me to go under the set. My head suffers what can only be called a brain freeze as I go under three waves, one after the other. I then sit and paddle a while to get my act together. A nice set comes through and I leave the first two and then paddle into the third, and it forms up beautifully and I'm away. I get up shakily and head left, get my balance and find myself going down the face of the wave in a slight free fall and get that great feeling of fear as your stomach sort of drops down on the inside. I land at the bottom and still have some face on my left and take it before the wave crashes down and I ride the whitewater - what a great wave and feel good about that.
I'm now in at the shore, more or less, and wait while some waves break and then head back out quickly. The next 15 minutes involves me getting a couple of classic wipeouts and one dinky little wave of about 2 seconds. I've been in a bout 40 minutes when I decide I have had enough and I'm getting out. As luck would have it as I start getting changed the rain comes down and I retreat to the car, once out of my wetsuit, to get into my clothes.
Not a bad way to start the morning but I do feel as if it will take me the next 2-3 hours to warm up again. I head to Merricks for some breakfast and it doesn't dissapoint - Merricks general store and then it's off home to watch Sam's footy. 7 breaks to go - touch and go I reckon.
I get changed in the rain, get my board down - the McTavish 9'1'' today and head out. I wait for a set to break and then it goes flat and I head out with no worries and sit out the back. A set comes through and its breaking just before where most of the crew are sitting and the result is the need for me to go under the set. My head suffers what can only be called a brain freeze as I go under three waves, one after the other. I then sit and paddle a while to get my act together. A nice set comes through and I leave the first two and then paddle into the third, and it forms up beautifully and I'm away. I get up shakily and head left, get my balance and find myself going down the face of the wave in a slight free fall and get that great feeling of fear as your stomach sort of drops down on the inside. I land at the bottom and still have some face on my left and take it before the wave crashes down and I ride the whitewater - what a great wave and feel good about that.
I'm now in at the shore, more or less, and wait while some waves break and then head back out quickly. The next 15 minutes involves me getting a couple of classic wipeouts and one dinky little wave of about 2 seconds. I've been in a bout 40 minutes when I decide I have had enough and I'm getting out. As luck would have it as I start getting changed the rain comes down and I retreat to the car, once out of my wetsuit, to get into my clothes.
Not a bad way to start the morning but I do feel as if it will take me the next 2-3 hours to warm up again. I head to Merricks for some breakfast and it doesn't dissapoint - Merricks general store and then it's off home to watch Sam's footy. 7 breaks to go - touch and go I reckon.
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Break 42 - Bancoora
Saturday 17th 2011 and after having brekky and a look aroud the shops Sam and I drive to Bancoora which is past Point Impossible and heading towards 13th Beach. After the majesty of Bell's we drive off the Breamlea Rd into a very drab car park and park next to the red brick Bancoora Surf club and check out the waves. Bancoora is a pretty plain looking beach with a point on the right with big breaking waves out past the rocks ( a good 250+M paddle) and a beach break straight out from the car park. Today there are some inconsistent but occassional nice waves out there and we decide to head out.
The air has a bit of odour as I paddle out and I find out later Bancoora is also known as turd rock because of the proximity of the sewerage treatment plant down the road. From Bell's to Turd rock all in a morning - you could only do that in Victoria! I am out the back about two minutes, when a nice little 2 foot wave comes through and I get up quickly, go right, keep low and turn off the back - its a short ride but real fun. In the next 10 minutes I get about five rides all shortish but I am having a great time. I reckon I'm on the fifth when Sam finally hits the water, having taken an age to get into his wetty. Things have started brilliantly but its soon changes as the wind moves to be across the break and the tide gets higher. There a few more waves come through and I do manage one more quite good wave. Sam on the other hand has a shocker, gets up a couple of times and wipes out and gets only a shorebreak ride. The one wave he claims he could have got is naturally spoiled by me being on the inside and he says he had to give way - personally I don't remember seeing him and he never gives way, anyway!
We get out after about 40 minutes in the surf and then it's back to Torquay for some hot chips and more coffee for me. All up, after lunch and a bit more shop browsing it's now about 3.30 when we decide to head home and it's been a good day with two breaks down. I've got to 42 and there are about 3 weekends left - it's touch and go and I'm not sure I'll make 50 but I'll give it my best shot.
The air has a bit of odour as I paddle out and I find out later Bancoora is also known as turd rock because of the proximity of the sewerage treatment plant down the road. From Bell's to Turd rock all in a morning - you could only do that in Victoria! I am out the back about two minutes, when a nice little 2 foot wave comes through and I get up quickly, go right, keep low and turn off the back - its a short ride but real fun. In the next 10 minutes I get about five rides all shortish but I am having a great time. I reckon I'm on the fifth when Sam finally hits the water, having taken an age to get into his wetty. Things have started brilliantly but its soon changes as the wind moves to be across the break and the tide gets higher. There a few more waves come through and I do manage one more quite good wave. Sam on the other hand has a shocker, gets up a couple of times and wipes out and gets only a shorebreak ride. The one wave he claims he could have got is naturally spoiled by me being on the inside and he says he had to give way - personally I don't remember seeing him and he never gives way, anyway!
We get out after about 40 minutes in the surf and then it's back to Torquay for some hot chips and more coffee for me. All up, after lunch and a bit more shop browsing it's now about 3.30 when we decide to head home and it's been a good day with two breaks down. I've got to 42 and there are about 3 weekends left - it's touch and go and I'm not sure I'll make 50 but I'll give it my best shot.
Break 41 - Bell's Beach
Saturday 16th July and it's a rather cold 5 degrees Celsius as Sam and I head off down the West Coast about 7.40 am. Today we are going to Bell's Beach - the home of surfing in Victoria. We get to Bell's a little after 9.00 am and its bloody freezing as we get into our wetsuits. The surf is average - about 2 ft with occasional 3ft and the sets are a fair wait. There are two blokes out in the bowl section of Bells (Rincon) and that is where Sam and I head out to catch a few.
Sitting out at bell's is magnificent with the natural amphitheatre of the cliffs surrounding the beach and the water and today the sun is out, although a coastal fog makes it hard to see past Winki Pop on the left of Bells. The water is dark and very cold - must be close to only 10-12 degrees and Sam let's me know he can hardly feel his toes after we have been out about 10 minutes. There are even at this hour probably 30 tourists around the car park with their cameras, although if they were looking at the two of us there are no highlights to photograph.
We are probably out about 30 minutes before a decent wave comes through and I paddle hard and get on. I get up to me knees and then I find myself on the wave and going right kneeboard style. I get up as the wave breaks and get a ride into shore - I enjoy it but I have to do better than that at Bells. Sam gets on a wave and is dumped as he takes off too far into the wave. He then finds himself trapped as perhaps the best set of the day rolls through and he is pushed back for about 10 minutes waiting for things to die down and they do and he paddles back out.
After about another 10 minutes I get onto a nice wave, with great shape and head down and right and the wave seems to have great shape on the right as I turn up and try to go down the line - the wave dies however and I just turn out the top. I have caught a good wave at bell's though and I feel really good. Sam is still battling though and I suggest to him we head in and he is very happy to do so. We get back to shore and walk up the steps to the car park and you can't help thinking when you go up the stairs at Bells about all the great surfers who have walked up the same steps - MP, MR, Parko with his great win this year, Slater and Fanning etc.
Getting changed in the car park it is freezing and you have to be hardy surfing in Victoria in winter. We head into Torqay for breakfast and its a ripper - Bombora Cafe opposite the surf shops. Sam has french toast and a couple of hash browns and I have an egg and bacon roll with great coffee - fantastic and it's a great end to a good morning.
Sitting out at bell's is magnificent with the natural amphitheatre of the cliffs surrounding the beach and the water and today the sun is out, although a coastal fog makes it hard to see past Winki Pop on the left of Bells. The water is dark and very cold - must be close to only 10-12 degrees and Sam let's me know he can hardly feel his toes after we have been out about 10 minutes. There are even at this hour probably 30 tourists around the car park with their cameras, although if they were looking at the two of us there are no highlights to photograph.
We are probably out about 30 minutes before a decent wave comes through and I paddle hard and get on. I get up to me knees and then I find myself on the wave and going right kneeboard style. I get up as the wave breaks and get a ride into shore - I enjoy it but I have to do better than that at Bells. Sam gets on a wave and is dumped as he takes off too far into the wave. He then finds himself trapped as perhaps the best set of the day rolls through and he is pushed back for about 10 minutes waiting for things to die down and they do and he paddles back out.
After about another 10 minutes I get onto a nice wave, with great shape and head down and right and the wave seems to have great shape on the right as I turn up and try to go down the line - the wave dies however and I just turn out the top. I have caught a good wave at bell's though and I feel really good. Sam is still battling though and I suggest to him we head in and he is very happy to do so. We get back to shore and walk up the steps to the car park and you can't help thinking when you go up the stairs at Bells about all the great surfers who have walked up the same steps - MP, MR, Parko with his great win this year, Slater and Fanning etc.
Getting changed in the car park it is freezing and you have to be hardy surfing in Victoria in winter. We head into Torqay for breakfast and its a ripper - Bombora Cafe opposite the surf shops. Sam has french toast and a couple of hash browns and I have an egg and bacon roll with great coffee - fantastic and it's a great end to a good morning.
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Break No. 40 - Guvvos
Sunday 26th June and I'm up reasonably early for a Sunday and out of house about 7.45 am. The wind is northerly and I'm thinking I'll try the West Coast and head towards Fairhaven. The sky is pretty clear and although the wind seems pretty strong I'm thinking it looks like a ripper day. I'm going by myself today and am thinking about whether I can double up, but that may be tough as I've got to be back for Sam's footy in the afternoon.
I make pretty good time and am heading past Bell's Beach about 9.00 am. I keep going and as I head through Anglesea I think I will stop at Guvvos and check that out. Guvvos is about 4 kms out of Anglesea, and is I think the third beach car park on Point Roadknight. Guvvos is a beach break and as I look out from the beach lookout there are around 6 or 7 blokes in the water and whilst it looks small, it's very clean with a strong off-shore wind blowing. I get changed quickly and I reckon it's only about 7 or 8 degrees with the wind chill biting a bit too.
I'm quickly in the water and out the back in no time. The waves are probably mostly 1/2 a meter with the odd 1 meter rolling through. The waves are holding up in the strong off shore and this is a bit frustrating. After about 10 mins I get onto a great little wave but I probably take off a bit straight and deep as when I look to go left and back up the bank the wave has already broken - I just turn out, but it was a nice little ride. I paddle around for the next 15 mins keeping warm and actually with the sun out it's really pretty nice, it's just the wind on your face that bites a bit. A set comes through and I let two others I'm out with get the first wave and then I get onto the second. It's a nice wave, about 2 foot or so and I'm up quickly and go right down the face and then turn right again to coast down the line very briefly before it breaks and dribbles out. Another nice ride.
I get onto a couple of other rides over the next twenty minutes or so and also make a clown of myself on another couple of waves by either getting under one or falling off another. After being out about 50 mins. I head in and must say I've enjoyed Guvvos and would come back again, the banks look good and one of the guys out tells me he reckons it's one of the most reliable breaks around - he tells me lives in Anglesea and so that's a great recommendation.
After the surf I head into Torquay and check out the shops, buying a few tee shirts on sale and grabbing some breakfast. I go into Patagonia and I love their stuff but wish they would have a sale, so I could afford to buy something! 40 breaks down and 10 to go - it will be touch and go but what the hell it's the journey you need to enjoy, not the goal isn't it!!
I make pretty good time and am heading past Bell's Beach about 9.00 am. I keep going and as I head through Anglesea I think I will stop at Guvvos and check that out. Guvvos is about 4 kms out of Anglesea, and is I think the third beach car park on Point Roadknight. Guvvos is a beach break and as I look out from the beach lookout there are around 6 or 7 blokes in the water and whilst it looks small, it's very clean with a strong off-shore wind blowing. I get changed quickly and I reckon it's only about 7 or 8 degrees with the wind chill biting a bit too.
I'm quickly in the water and out the back in no time. The waves are probably mostly 1/2 a meter with the odd 1 meter rolling through. The waves are holding up in the strong off shore and this is a bit frustrating. After about 10 mins I get onto a great little wave but I probably take off a bit straight and deep as when I look to go left and back up the bank the wave has already broken - I just turn out, but it was a nice little ride. I paddle around for the next 15 mins keeping warm and actually with the sun out it's really pretty nice, it's just the wind on your face that bites a bit. A set comes through and I let two others I'm out with get the first wave and then I get onto the second. It's a nice wave, about 2 foot or so and I'm up quickly and go right down the face and then turn right again to coast down the line very briefly before it breaks and dribbles out. Another nice ride.
I get onto a couple of other rides over the next twenty minutes or so and also make a clown of myself on another couple of waves by either getting under one or falling off another. After being out about 50 mins. I head in and must say I've enjoyed Guvvos and would come back again, the banks look good and one of the guys out tells me he reckons it's one of the most reliable breaks around - he tells me lives in Anglesea and so that's a great recommendation.
After the surf I head into Torquay and check out the shops, buying a few tee shirts on sale and grabbing some breakfast. I go into Patagonia and I love their stuff but wish they would have a sale, so I could afford to buy something! 40 breaks down and 10 to go - it will be touch and go but what the hell it's the journey you need to enjoy, not the goal isn't it!!
Monday, June 20, 2011
Break 39 - Flynn's Reef, Phillip Island
Sunday 20th June and its overcast and windy but Sam and I decide to head to Phillip Island with Flynn's Reef the destination. We leave about 11.30 and arrive at Flynn's about 1.15 pm and its windy and also just a real inconsistent, swirly wind. Flynn's Reef is just before the Penguin Parade at Phillip Island and on the way to Cat Bay. We get out of the car and check the beach and its pretty ordinary, in fact the only reason you would surf Flynn's today would be because you had set yourself a ridiculous challenge to surf 50 different breaks in one year.
I head down the beach and it's that windy I'm having trouble holding my McTavish 9' Mal. I get out the back and I'm wondering what the hell I'm doing. A couple of waves comes through and they just blow out and then reform to dump just before the beach. I try and get a couple of waves but it is pretty hopeless and the wind is just getting stronger. I get onto a wave and get up and just hang on the lip and then bang the wave dumps and down I go. I go flat into the water and then over and get washed into the shore. I head back out, but after 10 minutes I think this is ridiculous and head back to the car where Sam is warm and happily listeningto the radio.
Sam and I do our usual stop at Smiths and again I get a great wrap and Sam has his version of a mixed grill - 3 nuggets, 3 calamari rings and chips. It is very good as usual as is the coffee. We check YCW and Smiths and there are waves but the wind is so off-shore and strong it is just holding up the waves and high tide is not helping. We head home and whilst the surf was rubbish and I feel satisfied that I have another break down and believe I'm still on track.
I head down the beach and it's that windy I'm having trouble holding my McTavish 9' Mal. I get out the back and I'm wondering what the hell I'm doing. A couple of waves comes through and they just blow out and then reform to dump just before the beach. I try and get a couple of waves but it is pretty hopeless and the wind is just getting stronger. I get onto a wave and get up and just hang on the lip and then bang the wave dumps and down I go. I go flat into the water and then over and get washed into the shore. I head back out, but after 10 minutes I think this is ridiculous and head back to the car where Sam is warm and happily listeningto the radio.
Sam and I do our usual stop at Smiths and again I get a great wrap and Sam has his version of a mixed grill - 3 nuggets, 3 calamari rings and chips. It is very good as usual as is the coffee. We check YCW and Smiths and there are waves but the wind is so off-shore and strong it is just holding up the waves and high tide is not helping. We head home and whilst the surf was rubbish and I feel satisfied that I have another break down and believe I'm still on track.
Monday, June 13, 2011
Break 38 - Kilcunda
Monday 12th June and we are heading home from two great days in Cape Paterson. We leave after breakfast in Inverloch about 11.00 and get to Kilcunda about midday. The day is again tremendous - blue sky and light wind. We park at the first car park out of Kilcunda and wander down to beach along the creek, under the railway bridge and enter the beach near the rocks. The surf is good and clean but with long wait between sets. The waves are two to three foot and there are some good waves to be have.
I head out with Sam and tell him to be careful as the rip is legendary. We get out easily and sit out the back over very dark water - I find Kilcunda creepy to surf because of the dark colour of the water. We have been out about 5 mins when I get onto a great right hander and go right down the face and turn out as the wave breaks into whitewater - it was a good 3ft and I am feeling very pumped when I get out to sam and ask him if he saw it. I then call Sam onto a wave and up he goes and then down he goes just as quickly. He is dumped and the board crashes over - he goes into shore and then paddles back out. However Sam doesn't have much luck and is dumped again about 5 mins later and he heads into shore.
I spend about 40 mins out and after that first wave don't have much luck, always seeming to find myself in the wrong spot. Sue and Sam tell me later that I was taking off to early and sitting in the wrong spot. They also tell me the old bloke out with me gets tubed twice - that's comforting!! I do get a couple of good waves and again really enjoy the surf and I do have a good shot of me "going right at killers" to remember this by - see below. 38 breaks down and twelve to go by August 9 - it will be touch and go but I remain confident.
I head out with Sam and tell him to be careful as the rip is legendary. We get out easily and sit out the back over very dark water - I find Kilcunda creepy to surf because of the dark colour of the water. We have been out about 5 mins when I get onto a great right hander and go right down the face and turn out as the wave breaks into whitewater - it was a good 3ft and I am feeling very pumped when I get out to sam and ask him if he saw it. I then call Sam onto a wave and up he goes and then down he goes just as quickly. He is dumped and the board crashes over - he goes into shore and then paddles back out. However Sam doesn't have much luck and is dumped again about 5 mins later and he heads into shore.
I spend about 40 mins out and after that first wave don't have much luck, always seeming to find myself in the wrong spot. Sue and Sam tell me later that I was taking off to early and sitting in the wrong spot. They also tell me the old bloke out with me gets tubed twice - that's comforting!! I do get a couple of good waves and again really enjoy the surf and I do have a good shot of me "going right at killers" to remember this by - see below. 38 breaks down and twelve to go by August 9 - it will be touch and go but I remain confident.
Break 37 - Inverloch surf beach
Sunday 11th June and it's another great day in Cape Paterson with blue skies and little wind. It was an icy start with it being 0.6 degrees when I went for a run down to the firstsurf beach at about 7.45 am. The Caravan Park is right above the bay beach and is about 800m from the surf beach. Cape Paterson is a great spot - the bay beach has rocks on the right and left side for rambling and a pool has been blasted out the of the rocks for kids to swim in. It's part of a national park and so there is great snorkling as well.
Having checked out first beach and seeing it is flat we decide to go into Inverloch for a surf. We drive the spectacular Bunarong Coastal Drive again and stop and check out Oaks beach but it doesn't look on today. We get to Inverloch and park in the car park behind the surf club. There are two blokes getting dressed from a surf and another just coming in, which looks like a good omen. We check the surf and it's about 1-2 foot but it is such a great day we head out anyway.
Sam and I spend about an hour and fifteen minutes in the water. We get some good small rides and it is just great fun in the water. I cannot believe with the sun out that it is June. The view today sitting out in the water is brilliant - you can see clearly down to Wilson's prom. and back up the other way to eagles nest. The beach at Inverloch is wide expanse with the river entrance down the left towards the town. While out Sam and I both get the same wave and I fell off but my Board slid out towards Sam which then made him have to swerve and he fell off - he talks about it for the next two days, exaggertaing the size of the wave and saying I spoilt his "face-time" on the wave (see photo below). Today has been just a great enjoyable surf in great weather - nothing spectactular in terms of surf but just a beautiful day in June, in Victoria. Bring on break 38. We have lunch at the Bakery in Inverloch and it's great - best sausage roll, except for Apollo Bay claims Sam.
Break 36 - Seconds, Cape Paterson
Saturday 10th June and it's the Queen's Birthday long weekend and so Sue, Sam and I are heading to Cape Paterson Caravan Park. We leave about 10.00 am and drive to Inverloch which is a bit over two hours from our place and arrive about 12.30. Inverloch is a classic beach town with a couple of pubs, supermarket, a great bakery and a smattering of cafe's and fish and chip shops. The drive between Inverloch and Cape paterson is about 30 minutes and is one of the great drives in Victoria. The road hugs the coast and the scenery is fantastic - Eagles nest is a highlight stop, being a rock outcrop with a great walk on low tide over rocks.
We check into the Caravan Park about 2.30 and then we check the two surf beaches, creatively called first and second surf beach and known as Insides and Seconds. Insides really only fires on a big tide and is flat today. We head to seconds and there are a couple of blokes out although it looks like the waves are closing out. Seconds is a very pretty beach accessed through a walk through bush scrub from the car park and then down a steepish sand path to the beach. There is a rock ledge on the left hand side of the beach and an underlying reef under a sandy bottom. Today the waves are two to three foot and mostly closing out.
Sam and I spend about 30 mins in the surf and I catch 2 waves which both close out as I get up and go left. Sam fairs even worse just getting dumped a couple of times and saves his day by catching a few whitewash waves. It is beautiful in the water and the sky is blue and so all in all it was pretty nice and I will definitely come back to try seconds again. We head back to the Park and I'm hoping to get to 38 breaks by the end of this weekend.
We check into the Caravan Park about 2.30 and then we check the two surf beaches, creatively called first and second surf beach and known as Insides and Seconds. Insides really only fires on a big tide and is flat today. We head to seconds and there are a couple of blokes out although it looks like the waves are closing out. Seconds is a very pretty beach accessed through a walk through bush scrub from the car park and then down a steepish sand path to the beach. There is a rock ledge on the left hand side of the beach and an underlying reef under a sandy bottom. Today the waves are two to three foot and mostly closing out.
Sam and I spend about 30 mins in the surf and I catch 2 waves which both close out as I get up and go left. Sam fairs even worse just getting dumped a couple of times and saves his day by catching a few whitewash waves. It is beautiful in the water and the sky is blue and so all in all it was pretty nice and I will definitely come back to try seconds again. We head back to the Park and I'm hoping to get to 38 breaks by the end of this weekend.
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Break 35 - Forrest Caves
Saturday 21st May and off the back of surfing Woolamai and with it being mid tide I decide to check out a few of the breaks on the Island. My venturing round to Flynns reef and surfies point proves fruitless however as there is not enough swell. In the end I head to Forrest Caves which is about 2 or 3 kms down from Woolamai, righ off the main Phillip Island Rd. Forrest Caves must have one of the ugliest approaches you will ever find to a beach - it sits on a desolate stretch of the main road and you enter down a dirt road into a car park behind grassy dunes with no view of the beach. It's very uninviting. Today however, climbing up the steep step to the platfrom lookout to the beach, the actual beach looks fantastic - skies are blue and you can see down both ways from the beach across the numerous breaks the Isalnd has. The swell is slightly more consistent, on the fuller tide but the off-shore breeze has picked up and so the sets are holding up a bit. There are about 10-15 blokes out but stretched across three group spots in the water.
I head out straight from the bottom of the stairs to the beach and get out the back smoothly - I really notice the water temp on my hands paddling out (it's down to 15 at the moment in Melbourne) but I am quickly warmed up. Again I just enjoy feeling the sun and looking at the magnificent day. I struggle to catch a wave as they either hold up on me or I give way to blokes on the inside. Eventually I get two in pretty quick succession and the waves are breaking right with some good rides if you nail the take off in right position - one of my rides does this and I go down the line right, keeping low to get some speed up and take it right down the line before it breaks and crashes. I have more long periods of near misses and just flat spots before the highlight of my day is watching a bloke in his early forties I reckon nail a 1 metre wave and go hard and low right and just about tube it - it's a great ride and both myself and another bloke out talk to him about it. He doesn't think he tubed it but in his own words "it was a beauty, mate". I get a small ride and after 50 or so minutes out decide to call it quits and come in.
A good day all round and with 15 more breaks to go I think doubling up is the only way I'm going to make it.
I head out straight from the bottom of the stairs to the beach and get out the back smoothly - I really notice the water temp on my hands paddling out (it's down to 15 at the moment in Melbourne) but I am quickly warmed up. Again I just enjoy feeling the sun and looking at the magnificent day. I struggle to catch a wave as they either hold up on me or I give way to blokes on the inside. Eventually I get two in pretty quick succession and the waves are breaking right with some good rides if you nail the take off in right position - one of my rides does this and I go down the line right, keeping low to get some speed up and take it right down the line before it breaks and crashes. I have more long periods of near misses and just flat spots before the highlight of my day is watching a bloke in his early forties I reckon nail a 1 metre wave and go hard and low right and just about tube it - it's a great ride and both myself and another bloke out talk to him about it. He doesn't think he tubed it but in his own words "it was a beauty, mate". I get a small ride and after 50 or so minutes out decide to call it quits and come in.
A good day all round and with 15 more breaks to go I think doubling up is the only way I'm going to make it.
Break 34 - Woolamai, Phillip Island
May 21st and it's a ripper day in Melbourne. Perfect Autumn day with sun out, reasonably clear, blue skies, a light wind and termperature is about 20 degrees Celsius. It's Phillip Island again today as the forecast is for waves between 1/2 to 1 metre and long waits between sets. I head off about 8.00 am, travelling solo and the low tide was also at 8.00 am.
I get to the Island in about 90 mins., the road is great and the trip would be even quicker if there wasn't always road works somewhere on the trip. I head to Woolamai and turn into the first car park and there's about 15 cars there. The surf looks fantastic in that the sun is out and its very clean - the waves are pretty infrequent and small but on a day like today you just have to get wet.
I venture out straight in front of the steps down from the car park and with the wait between sets and size of the swell - 2 foot, it's a breeze getting out. I am sitting there just enjoying the beauty of the day, looking at the beach with the view right down to the surf club in the distance and further on to the black cliffs at the end of Woolamai. My quiet contemplation is then broken by a local seal darting through the water right in front of me. It's a great sight and whilst a I do think seal=shark, I try and put that thought out of my head and focus instead on getting a wave.
I do manage eventually to catch a few waves including a great floater across the top of a breaking wave as I am heading right- it gave me a real buzz, and it is just unfortunate that I have no idea how I did it and so am unlikely to replicate it anytime soon. Still a young bloke out with me looked at me afterwards as though he thought it was pretty impressive. Catch a coupe of good waves going right in what is about a 60 minute surf. Really enjoyable and contrasts a bit with my previous wild Woolamai experiences.
I get out the water feeling like some food but first have to get out of my wetsuit which now has a ribbon attached to the zipper after the original leash broke about 6 weeks ago - this proves a major drama, and it takes me about 15 minutes to wrestle out the of suit and I decide then I will buy a new wettie. I head to Full Circle in Woolamai, via the coffee/food shop up the road which has great pies and burgers and is worth checking out - coffee was pretty good too. I check out the wetties and end up with an upgrade on my 5 year old ripcurl 3/4 with traditional zip up the back - I try the new chest zip wetties but find it too hard to actually get out.
It's such a great day I decide I'll have another surf and so break 35 is just around the corner.
I get to the Island in about 90 mins., the road is great and the trip would be even quicker if there wasn't always road works somewhere on the trip. I head to Woolamai and turn into the first car park and there's about 15 cars there. The surf looks fantastic in that the sun is out and its very clean - the waves are pretty infrequent and small but on a day like today you just have to get wet.
I venture out straight in front of the steps down from the car park and with the wait between sets and size of the swell - 2 foot, it's a breeze getting out. I am sitting there just enjoying the beauty of the day, looking at the beach with the view right down to the surf club in the distance and further on to the black cliffs at the end of Woolamai. My quiet contemplation is then broken by a local seal darting through the water right in front of me. It's a great sight and whilst a I do think seal=shark, I try and put that thought out of my head and focus instead on getting a wave.
I do manage eventually to catch a few waves including a great floater across the top of a breaking wave as I am heading right- it gave me a real buzz, and it is just unfortunate that I have no idea how I did it and so am unlikely to replicate it anytime soon. Still a young bloke out with me looked at me afterwards as though he thought it was pretty impressive. Catch a coupe of good waves going right in what is about a 60 minute surf. Really enjoyable and contrasts a bit with my previous wild Woolamai experiences.
I get out the water feeling like some food but first have to get out of my wetsuit which now has a ribbon attached to the zipper after the original leash broke about 6 weeks ago - this proves a major drama, and it takes me about 15 minutes to wrestle out the of suit and I decide then I will buy a new wettie. I head to Full Circle in Woolamai, via the coffee/food shop up the road which has great pies and burgers and is worth checking out - coffee was pretty good too. I check out the wetties and end up with an upgrade on my 5 year old ripcurl 3/4 with traditional zip up the back - I try the new chest zip wetties but find it too hard to actually get out.
It's such a great day I decide I'll have another surf and so break 35 is just around the corner.
Sunday, May 1, 2011
Break 33 - Summerlands, Phillip Island
1st May and today it's off to Phillip Island again. I'm on my own today as Sam has footy and I'll try and get back for that at 1.30 and so head off at about 8.00 am. I make pretty good time to the Island but once there I meander a bit checking out Woolamai, Forest Caves and Flynns's reef before I settle on Summerlands, better known as the home of the fairy penguin parade.
Summerlands has a point break, breaking over a shallow rocky reef and is accessed by walking down the boardwalk leading to the penguin parade. Today there are two people out and the waves are mainly about 2 ft with the odd 1 meter set rolling through. I head out pretty easily and sit out the back waiting for a set to come through. After about 10 mins and some waiting in turn a wave comes through and I'm up and heading right down the line - it's a pretty short ride and then goes to whitwater. There are some good rides out there though and you can ride all the way from the out the back into the beach - about 30 meters or so. A good fat 1 meter comes through and I'm up quickly but just as quickly I loose it and go splatt onto my back, on the left hand side of my board. I'm getting a bit frustrated now.
I chill out and paddle slowly out the back and wait my turn. I get two small rides and then at last get onto a good wave and go gliding right and then the wave breaks and reforms as I go right and I'm able to go up and turn down and find myself then shooting across the small, transparent, green wall for 10 meters as I come into the beach. A great way to finish and I decide to head for Smiths to get my usual coffee and a feed.
The challenge is still there to get to fifty and I think my family is giving up - for me the next Month of may will determine it and I think I need to be at 38 at least.
Summerlands has a point break, breaking over a shallow rocky reef and is accessed by walking down the boardwalk leading to the penguin parade. Today there are two people out and the waves are mainly about 2 ft with the odd 1 meter set rolling through. I head out pretty easily and sit out the back waiting for a set to come through. After about 10 mins and some waiting in turn a wave comes through and I'm up and heading right down the line - it's a pretty short ride and then goes to whitwater. There are some good rides out there though and you can ride all the way from the out the back into the beach - about 30 meters or so. A good fat 1 meter comes through and I'm up quickly but just as quickly I loose it and go splatt onto my back, on the left hand side of my board. I'm getting a bit frustrated now.
I chill out and paddle slowly out the back and wait my turn. I get two small rides and then at last get onto a good wave and go gliding right and then the wave breaks and reforms as I go right and I'm able to go up and turn down and find myself then shooting across the small, transparent, green wall for 10 meters as I come into the beach. A great way to finish and I decide to head for Smiths to get my usual coffee and a feed.
The challenge is still there to get to fifty and I think my family is giving up - for me the next Month of may will determine it and I think I need to be at 38 at least.
Monday, April 25, 2011
Break 32 - Berry's beach, Phillip Island
Monday 25th April and after a surf at Surf Beach, Sam and I head to Smiths's beach for our usual lunch and coffee and it doesn't dissapoint - the best wraps, fish and chips and coffee on the island, a must visit at Phillip Island. After filling up we head left from Smiths down back beach road and past the grand prix track; we see Berry's Beach Rd and decide to check it out, having driven past it countless times on the way to Cat Bay. Berry's Beach is a great visit - a winding track down to the beach through scrub to emerge into a semi-circular beach with red cliff down the end, green hills in backdrop and black rock point on the right. The break today is all close outs but Sam and I head out anyway and sit about 3/4 of the way out and cathc some reforms. We both get a few waves but more than anything just enjoy the setting, the sun and probably for me the last chance for some time to wear a summer wettie in mild water. Really enjoyable 45 mins in the water, less for the waves and more for juts finding another great Victorian beach. There is a walk from Berry's beach round to Pyramid rock and that looks fantastic.
Today is Break 32 and I think I'm still on track, although my family I think have given up on me and think of my quest for 50 as slightly Don Quixote in nature - futile quest of the old man. The next 6 weeks I think are crucial and so next weekend will try and double up again.
Today is Break 32 and I think I'm still on track, although my family I think have given up on me and think of my quest for 50 as slightly Don Quixote in nature - futile quest of the old man. The next 6 weeks I think are crucial and so next weekend will try and double up again.
Break 31 - Surf Beach, Phillip Island
Monday 25th and its another cracker day of the Easter Break. Saturday we went to Bells and saw some fantastic surfing in 3 meter Bells with Mick Fanning and Parko just awesome in their heats. Today Sam and I are heading to Phillip Island and the weather is forecast as sunny and low 20s. As we head off about 9.00 it's thick fog can you believe it. The fog breaks as we get close the Island and its blue skies all the way the Woolamai - the surf is just not there on low tide and we decide to try surf beach.
Surf beach is a great little beach. Typical of the Island with a stair case walk down to the beach, with the beach backed by cliffs of green, with black rocks around. Surfies point is on the point of the beach but Sam and I try the beachies where there are a half dozen blokes out. I am in the water with leash on and as I go to zip up the back of my wettie and head out the zip beaks and the wettie won't do up. I try and fasten the top and head out with a gaping back in the wetsuit. I get onto a wave and I'm up and away going right and then the wave dies and I drop down and fall out. As I hit the water my suit fills up and even my legs are swelled with water. I hop on the board and head in weighing a ton. I decide its no use going back out and am grateful I've got my summer wettie in the car for later. Sam stays out for about 20 mins and doesn't have much luck but there are some waves out there and it's a beach worth coming to.
I will try surfies point next time I'm back with a new wettie. Anyway it was great just sitting on the beach as the day is awesome and the beach view great.
Surf beach is a great little beach. Typical of the Island with a stair case walk down to the beach, with the beach backed by cliffs of green, with black rocks around. Surfies point is on the point of the beach but Sam and I try the beachies where there are a half dozen blokes out. I am in the water with leash on and as I go to zip up the back of my wettie and head out the zip beaks and the wettie won't do up. I try and fasten the top and head out with a gaping back in the wetsuit. I get onto a wave and I'm up and away going right and then the wave dies and I drop down and fall out. As I hit the water my suit fills up and even my legs are swelled with water. I hop on the board and head in weighing a ton. I decide its no use going back out and am grateful I've got my summer wettie in the car for later. Sam stays out for about 20 mins and doesn't have much luck but there are some waves out there and it's a beach worth coming to.
I will try surfies point next time I'm back with a new wettie. Anyway it was great just sitting on the beach as the day is awesome and the beach view great.
Saturday, April 9, 2011
Break 30 - Point Lonsdale
Saturday 9th April and I've already surfed 13th Beach and had a great breakfast in Point Lonsdale. Lonsdale is about 20 mins from 13th Beach and is basically at the heads entrance to Port Phillip Bay. It's a great place for a visit - the town is nice and has plenty of places to eat and if you don't want to surf the lookout on the point is fantastic and Queensclif is just down the road.
I check out the surf and it's pretty much the same as 13th although the off-shore wind has picked up more and there's even fewer people out here. There are two blokes in the water where I head out and the wait between sets is even longer. It's about 1.00 pm as I hit the water. Like this morning the view and weather is great - you can see the lighthouse on the point and right across the heads to point nepean on the other side of the bay. The beach is really spectacular today.
The surf is not so spectacular and I catch probably about 6 waves in more than an hour in the surf. The left hander works really well and I don't know why I surf well on the backhand but is seem to. I get some really enjoyable rides going left and manage to stay low and get some great rides going down the line. I get out after more than an hour in the surf and I am buggered. It's a small hike up the hill past the surf club but I am really puffing as I go up. Two surfs in the day and I am back on track I reckon. 30 breaks down and 20 to go.
Bring on April I say and I am aiming to have 35 by the end of April/first week of May.
I check out the surf and it's pretty much the same as 13th although the off-shore wind has picked up more and there's even fewer people out here. There are two blokes in the water where I head out and the wait between sets is even longer. It's about 1.00 pm as I hit the water. Like this morning the view and weather is great - you can see the lighthouse on the point and right across the heads to point nepean on the other side of the bay. The beach is really spectacular today.
The surf is not so spectacular and I catch probably about 6 waves in more than an hour in the surf. The left hander works really well and I don't know why I surf well on the backhand but is seem to. I get some really enjoyable rides going left and manage to stay low and get some great rides going down the line. I get out after more than an hour in the surf and I am buggered. It's a small hike up the hill past the surf club but I am really puffing as I go up. Two surfs in the day and I am back on track I reckon. 30 breaks down and 20 to go.
Bring on April I say and I am aiming to have 35 by the end of April/first week of May.
Break 29 - Cylinders @ 13th Beach
Saturday 9th April - cracker of a day with a northerly wind and temp. expected to be high 20's. I head off early, a bit after 7.00 am and after gettuing coffee and petrol on the way get to 13th beach about 9.00 am. 13th beach is at barwon heads on the west coast, about 20 mins from Geelong heading towards the Port Phillip heads. Today 13th looks great - clear as a bell, small swell and hardly anyone out, presumably because of the small swell.
I hit the surf and there are 3 or 4 others out in the water. It's really a great spot - you can see down the coast towards the Torquay and up the other way towards Ocean Grove past the point at barwon heads. The waves are small - 2 foot and mainly even smaller and long waits betwen sets. On another day the wait might frustrate but today with the weather and knowing it might be the last day I can get away with my summer wetty, I just make the most of it. The waves are breaking left and right and the rides are short. I stay out for about an hour and get six or seven good waves, including a couple of great left handers - down low and managing to just sort of hang on the top of the wave a couple of times after going left for a while.
It's been a really enjoyable surf - the blokes out were nice and friendly and the scenery and surf make the day. The weather and surf are so good I decide to head to breakfast and then try Point Lonsdale.
I hit the surf and there are 3 or 4 others out in the water. It's really a great spot - you can see down the coast towards the Torquay and up the other way towards Ocean Grove past the point at barwon heads. The waves are small - 2 foot and mainly even smaller and long waits betwen sets. On another day the wait might frustrate but today with the weather and knowing it might be the last day I can get away with my summer wetty, I just make the most of it. The waves are breaking left and right and the rides are short. I stay out for about an hour and get six or seven good waves, including a couple of great left handers - down low and managing to just sort of hang on the top of the wave a couple of times after going left for a while.
It's been a really enjoyable surf - the blokes out were nice and friendly and the scenery and surf make the day. The weather and surf are so good I decide to head to breakfast and then try Point Lonsdale.
Sunday, April 3, 2011
Break 28 - East Beach, Port Fairy
Saturday 2nd April and Warnambool is blown out and so I head down to Port Fairy to check the surf out. Port Fairy is only 30/40 mins from Warnambool and a very nice drive with a few spots on the way worth checking out - Killarney and Tower Hill to name a few.
At Port Fairy I check out the East Beach in this historic little town. It doesn't look great - the beach is in a small bay and the wind is onshore and surf a little blown out. There are 3 blokes out in front of the surf club and I think well they can't all be wrong and so head out. I get out through the breaking surf pretty easily and it's about 2 foot mostly with the odd 2.5 foot coming through. The waves are mostly dumping but there is the odd ride to be had, mostly breaking right. I get a couple of nice waves and one great dumper, which sends me flying. The good wave reforms and is quite a nice ride into the beach and I get out. I'm out for about 40 mins and you can tell the good weather is over for Victoria, as I get out because my feet are losing their feeling it's that cold in the water. The beach itself is very picturesque and I can imagine it getting some good surf for long boarders in winter when bigger swells would get into the bay.
I check out the breaks around Port Fairy and they are really mean - the passage and Gabbos. There are rocks everywhere and great big, wild surf - it's for tough, experienced and crazy surfers.
Port Fairy is a great little town and the bakery in the main street is fantastic and there are lots of great places to eat and stay. It is definitely worth a look.
At Port Fairy I check out the East Beach in this historic little town. It doesn't look great - the beach is in a small bay and the wind is onshore and surf a little blown out. There are 3 blokes out in front of the surf club and I think well they can't all be wrong and so head out. I get out through the breaking surf pretty easily and it's about 2 foot mostly with the odd 2.5 foot coming through. The waves are mostly dumping but there is the odd ride to be had, mostly breaking right. I get a couple of nice waves and one great dumper, which sends me flying. The good wave reforms and is quite a nice ride into the beach and I get out. I'm out for about 40 mins and you can tell the good weather is over for Victoria, as I get out because my feet are losing their feeling it's that cold in the water. The beach itself is very picturesque and I can imagine it getting some good surf for long boarders in winter when bigger swells would get into the bay.
I check out the breaks around Port Fairy and they are really mean - the passage and Gabbos. There are rocks everywhere and great big, wild surf - it's for tough, experienced and crazy surfers.
Port Fairy is a great little town and the bakery in the main street is fantastic and there are lots of great places to eat and stay. It is definitely worth a look.
Break 27 - Warnambool
Friday 1st April and I have a day off between jobs and so have headed to Warnambool in the deep west of Victoria to get some surf and chill out.
Warnambool is about 3.5 hours from Melbourne and I arrive about 2.00 pm and check out the best known break - japs at Logans Beach and its terrible and so I head into town towards my accomodation and the main beach. I pull up next to the surf club and check the beach - its blowing a fair gale and the wind is on shore which doesn't make for the best conditions. I decide to head out anyway and there's one other bloke out there as well trying to catch a wave. The swell is about 2 foot and I head out the back. I catch a wave nearly straight away and it's about a five second wave down the face before "dumper" down she goes and I ride some whitewater. I get another couple of waves, including one slightly longer ride and then head out. I can see why they call it windy Warnambool.
Warnambool is a really great town, the main beach is great and the walks around the beach and across to thunder point are truly worth a look. The main beach, Lady bay is a beginner/intermediate wave and Logans beach is more intermediate/experienced surfer.
Warnambool is about 3.5 hours from Melbourne and I arrive about 2.00 pm and check out the best known break - japs at Logans Beach and its terrible and so I head into town towards my accomodation and the main beach. I pull up next to the surf club and check the beach - its blowing a fair gale and the wind is on shore which doesn't make for the best conditions. I decide to head out anyway and there's one other bloke out there as well trying to catch a wave. The swell is about 2 foot and I head out the back. I catch a wave nearly straight away and it's about a five second wave down the face before "dumper" down she goes and I ride some whitewater. I get another couple of waves, including one slightly longer ride and then head out. I can see why they call it windy Warnambool.
Warnambool is a really great town, the main beach is great and the walks around the beach and across to thunder point are truly worth a look. The main beach, Lady bay is a beginner/intermediate wave and Logans beach is more intermediate/experienced surfer.
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Break 26 - Lorne
Friday 25th March and Sue, Sam and I are heading to Lorne on the Great Ocean Road about an hour from Torquay. We arrive about 3.00 pm and there is a bit of swell and it's very clean. The main break at Lorne is on the point front of the surf club. On low tide it breaks best about 200 meters off shore and is best directly from the rocks on the righ hand side leading out to the pier. On mid to high tide there can be some decent waves directly accessable from the beach, near the surf club. It's mid tide for Sam and I and the only action is closer in to the beach. There are about four blokes out - 2 longboarders and a couple of short boarders.
Sam and I both get out the back with ease, with access close to the rocks taking you round the break. The sets have nice break between them and the waves are about 2 foot with perhaps the odd 2.5 to 3 foot. The waves are holding up a bit in a light off shore wind but otherwise it's a really beautiful day - about 18-20 degrees and blue skies in Lorne. Lorne is so picturesque with the rocks on the left hand side, a broad stretch of beach and the hills in the background and today it's just nice sitting out the back.
Sam gets on to a wave early and I can see him get up and then disappear and it's only after a few seconds that I see him re-emerge riding the wave into the beach - he let's me know later it's one of his best waves ever. I catch a few and really enjoy the session and get one beauty of a wave on which I get a great ride all the way to the beach as I get a reform half way in. We both get plenty of waves (one photo example below) and about 40 minutes in we are joined by two loder guys on their mals who declare "you two have had it too good for too long and we've come to get some waves". True to their word they start getting them and the term "wave hog" was coined for these blokes, although they do it in good spirits and have plenty of fun.
We spend the next two days on Lorne and for a break I thought fickle it is extremely consistent, if small across the whole weekend. We also head to Kennet River on the Saturday and that was firing on the low tide. I recommened the Wye River Cafe for a stop on the Great Ocean Rd and also Lorne has the best Hamburger joint in Australia - this may surprise you but the hot lentil was the best burger I have had. It does great chicken and beef burgers as well.
I have a few days off at the end of this week and so hope to get to 30 breaks by the end of March.
Sam and I both get out the back with ease, with access close to the rocks taking you round the break. The sets have nice break between them and the waves are about 2 foot with perhaps the odd 2.5 to 3 foot. The waves are holding up a bit in a light off shore wind but otherwise it's a really beautiful day - about 18-20 degrees and blue skies in Lorne. Lorne is so picturesque with the rocks on the left hand side, a broad stretch of beach and the hills in the background and today it's just nice sitting out the back.
Sam gets on to a wave early and I can see him get up and then disappear and it's only after a few seconds that I see him re-emerge riding the wave into the beach - he let's me know later it's one of his best waves ever. I catch a few and really enjoy the session and get one beauty of a wave on which I get a great ride all the way to the beach as I get a reform half way in. We both get plenty of waves (one photo example below) and about 40 minutes in we are joined by two loder guys on their mals who declare "you two have had it too good for too long and we've come to get some waves". True to their word they start getting them and the term "wave hog" was coined for these blokes, although they do it in good spirits and have plenty of fun.
We spend the next two days on Lorne and for a break I thought fickle it is extremely consistent, if small across the whole weekend. We also head to Kennet River on the Saturday and that was firing on the low tide. I recommened the Wye River Cafe for a stop on the Great Ocean Rd and also Lorne has the best Hamburger joint in Australia - this may surprise you but the hot lentil was the best burger I have had. It does great chicken and beef burgers as well.
I have a few days off at the end of this week and so hope to get to 30 breaks by the end of March.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Break 25 - Cozey Corner (front beach Torquay)
Sunday 20th March and it's a cloudy morning following a fair bit of rain in the night. I check the webcams and surf reports and I'm not filled with huge hope but get Sam up about 7.40 and tell him we'll head to Torquay and check it out. We pick up his mate Louey and head off just after 8.00 am.
We get a great run down to Torquay and we are out of the car checking out the small surf at 9.30 and in the water by 9.40. Not too many people out and the weather is fantastic - clear sky, virtually no wind and a moderate temp. of about 20 or so. The front beach at Torquay gets some swell coming round the reef from Point Danger and into the bay. It's a beginners and Mal wave and that's reflected in the crowd in the water. The waves are probably about 1 foot mostly with the occassional 2 to 2.5 foot wave coming through. The waves are holding up a bit but when you're on it's a fun wave and you can get a good 20 meter ride into the beach and I imagine on bigger days you could have a lot of fun from out the back.
The two boys catch a fair few waves and have a good time, mostly catching reforms or at times standing in the surf and then just pushing straight onto the waves. I get a couple of great little waves including a nice little wave where I headed right and turned around to give the boys the big Mick Fanning Victory salute as I headed right down the wave. All in all a fun little session and I have milked Torquay for all it's worth, with this being break no. 3 there. It's time to move on and I need 30 by the end of March/first week in April to stay on track.
We get a great run down to Torquay and we are out of the car checking out the small surf at 9.30 and in the water by 9.40. Not too many people out and the weather is fantastic - clear sky, virtually no wind and a moderate temp. of about 20 or so. The front beach at Torquay gets some swell coming round the reef from Point Danger and into the bay. It's a beginners and Mal wave and that's reflected in the crowd in the water. The waves are probably about 1 foot mostly with the occassional 2 to 2.5 foot wave coming through. The waves are holding up a bit but when you're on it's a fun wave and you can get a good 20 meter ride into the beach and I imagine on bigger days you could have a lot of fun from out the back.
The two boys catch a fair few waves and have a good time, mostly catching reforms or at times standing in the surf and then just pushing straight onto the waves. I get a couple of great little waves including a nice little wave where I headed right and turned around to give the boys the big Mick Fanning Victory salute as I headed right down the wave. All in all a fun little session and I have milked Torquay for all it's worth, with this being break no. 3 there. It's time to move on and I need 30 by the end of March/first week in April to stay on track.
Monday, March 14, 2011
Break 24 - Point Danger, Torquay
Sunday 13th March and we decide to head to Torquay and check out Cosy Corner on the front beach - Susan (our official photographer), Sam and myself. The weather when we leave about 8.00 am is looking great and and as we are heading off reasonably early we hope for a good run down to Geelong. The trip flies and we are down there at 9.30 am easy - cosy corner, which is on the front beach at Torquay is hopeless though, flat as a tack and the tide going out. We check out Point Danger on the left hand edge of Torquay surf beach (the opposite end to the surf club) and it is going fine. The waves are two to three feet and there are only six to ten people out and reasonably spread out.
Sam and I head out from the path down from the car park, about 40 meters or so across from the point itself, heading to Torquay. There's a right hander breaking with some left hander further across towards towards Torquay main beach. It's a bit scrambly getting out across thr rocks but once through that it's an easy paddle out as the sets have a decent wait between them.
I get quite a decent ride early on, getting up quick and heading right and then turning off the back of the wave. I'm feeling pretty chuffed at this point and looking forward to the session. This feeling doesn't last too long though as a I just fail to get onto a few and also have at least two rides lined up only to give way to a bloke on the inside both times. I'm getting quite frustrated and then this is topped off by an attempt to go too late on a wave which sees me absolutely wiped out and my board pinged about 4 feet into the air as I go straight over the top. I get up laughing at the sight of a young gun paddling out who is in fits at my stack and I decide to chill out and get back in the line-up.
I then just sit out the back for about 10 minutes and take in the great day, have a chat to Sam about how he is going and decide to be more patient. The change in attitude pays off as I get a nice little wave that I take left and manage to work into the reform. I head back out and then get my wave of the day - It's a two and half foot wave that I paddle hard onto and then get up, move right down the wave as it breaks and keep riding. It then reforms and I go up and right and keep heading down the line until it breaks again and then I drop down and ride all the way in to the edge of the rocks. Great ride and I decide to head out very content.
We get changed and then head for brunch - we go to point bake in Torquay and it is fantastic. Great bacon, avocado, tomato and lettuce toasted sandwich. Sue has the same but with chicken and Sam has chips. Great meal. We then head back to the beach and Sam has another surf and get's a couple of good rides before the weather turns real bad - wind, rain and clouds come over very quickly. We then head to the surf shops at Torquay and buy a few goodies and then home. Great day and break 24 down. I think 30 by the end of the month is realistic as I have a few days off towards the end and then I reckon I'm looking good for 50.
Sam and I head out from the path down from the car park, about 40 meters or so across from the point itself, heading to Torquay. There's a right hander breaking with some left hander further across towards towards Torquay main beach. It's a bit scrambly getting out across thr rocks but once through that it's an easy paddle out as the sets have a decent wait between them.
I get quite a decent ride early on, getting up quick and heading right and then turning off the back of the wave. I'm feeling pretty chuffed at this point and looking forward to the session. This feeling doesn't last too long though as a I just fail to get onto a few and also have at least two rides lined up only to give way to a bloke on the inside both times. I'm getting quite frustrated and then this is topped off by an attempt to go too late on a wave which sees me absolutely wiped out and my board pinged about 4 feet into the air as I go straight over the top. I get up laughing at the sight of a young gun paddling out who is in fits at my stack and I decide to chill out and get back in the line-up.
I then just sit out the back for about 10 minutes and take in the great day, have a chat to Sam about how he is going and decide to be more patient. The change in attitude pays off as I get a nice little wave that I take left and manage to work into the reform. I head back out and then get my wave of the day - It's a two and half foot wave that I paddle hard onto and then get up, move right down the wave as it breaks and keep riding. It then reforms and I go up and right and keep heading down the line until it breaks again and then I drop down and ride all the way in to the edge of the rocks. Great ride and I decide to head out very content.
We get changed and then head for brunch - we go to point bake in Torquay and it is fantastic. Great bacon, avocado, tomato and lettuce toasted sandwich. Sue has the same but with chicken and Sam has chips. Great meal. We then head back to the beach and Sam has another surf and get's a couple of good rides before the weather turns real bad - wind, rain and clouds come over very quickly. We then head to the surf shops at Torquay and buy a few goodies and then home. Great day and break 24 down. I think 30 by the end of the month is realistic as I have a few days off towards the end and then I reckon I'm looking good for 50.
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Break 22 & 23 - Gunnmatta & St Andrews
Sunday 6th March and it's a beautiful Autumn day in Melbourne and one of the best days we have had in weeks. The temperature is expected in high 20s, the sun is out, the skies are blue and the surf forecast is good. Sam has headed down the West Coast with a mate and his mates dad and so today I am off solo. I decide I will head down the East Coast and Gunnamatta is my destination of choice. "Gunna" is renowned as one of Victoria's most reliable beach breaks and for short board riders in Melbourne, probably the destintaion of choice most weekends. From my place it's about 80-90 mins and I head off about 8.45.
At about 10.15 or so I am getting out of my car at Gunnamatta and the place is packed. The second car park near the surf club is packed - 60-70 cars I reckon and I head to check the surf. There's plenty of people on the beach because it's such a great day but there are also about 40-50 surfers spread out over 3 breaks up and down the beach. The forecast has been spot on - 2 to 3 foot, north easter wind and good conditions.
Gunna in my view is one those waves for experienced surfers. Even on a day like today the waves have some power and there are rips running up and down the beach. I pick my mark on the beach to head out and today it's pretty easy getting out the back if you take your time and wait for breaks between sets, which are quite reasonable. I find a spot which is not right out the back, just about 10-15 meters short of that and wait for my wave. It's a frustrating next 20 mins as I nearly get on to a few, just fall off the back and catch a ripper only just as I'm getting up a voice on the inside yells "whoa! it's mine mate" and I drop off the back. I paddle around looking for some space and then a set comes through. I let the first couple go and then set myself for the third - it forms up and I catch the clean end of the wave as it starts to break going left, I'm up and the wave pushed me left and away I go down the line and then just as suddenly as I'm up and away, the wave dies out and I turn out. I paddle around and let the gun surfers around me catch a few and then I finally get on to one, which is a reform from out the back but I manage to go left down the line and then turn more straight on as it reforms and it takes me nearly all the way to beach. At this point I have been out here about 45 mins and I decide to head in and take advantage of the great weather and try a surf at Rye.
I get changed with the intention of going to Rye beach but on the way I see the sign for St. Andrews and think well why not try there. St. Andrews is further west down the same beach stretch of coast as Gunna and about a 10 minute drive, albeit a bit windy and confusing. I get to St. Andrews and the conditions are identical although not as crowded and the waves look slightly more benign. St Andrews is classic beach break but with rocks around the entry to the water and there are some clear gates to go out from here. You walk down through the dunes and it's a great stretch of beach. I head out through a sand gate between the rocks, waiting for a break in the waves and then I'm off paddling. Nice paddle out the back of about 50-60 meters and I just sit and wait for a good wave. The off-shore wind seems slightly stringer and the waves are holding up a bit and it means they are just not forming up as you expect. There are some good surfers out and I'm the only bloke on a longboard in my area - there are three breaks working across the beach and the surfers are quite well spread out.
I have been out about 20 mins and not had any luck, fallen of the back of a few and probably not taken my chances on quite a few and then along comes my wave of the day - I get up quickly and head straight as the waves breaks in front, it then reforms and I turn up and down the face heading right and it takes me all the way to the beach. A great ride and I decide to call it quits and head home.
St Andrew's is a good choice of beach when Gunna is crowded and conditions are good - as the conditions are nearly the same but you have less crowds.
A successful day and I'm pretty happy with two breaks in one day and I think I need 30 breaks down at the end of March to be on track.
At about 10.15 or so I am getting out of my car at Gunnamatta and the place is packed. The second car park near the surf club is packed - 60-70 cars I reckon and I head to check the surf. There's plenty of people on the beach because it's such a great day but there are also about 40-50 surfers spread out over 3 breaks up and down the beach. The forecast has been spot on - 2 to 3 foot, north easter wind and good conditions.
Gunna in my view is one those waves for experienced surfers. Even on a day like today the waves have some power and there are rips running up and down the beach. I pick my mark on the beach to head out and today it's pretty easy getting out the back if you take your time and wait for breaks between sets, which are quite reasonable. I find a spot which is not right out the back, just about 10-15 meters short of that and wait for my wave. It's a frustrating next 20 mins as I nearly get on to a few, just fall off the back and catch a ripper only just as I'm getting up a voice on the inside yells "whoa! it's mine mate" and I drop off the back. I paddle around looking for some space and then a set comes through. I let the first couple go and then set myself for the third - it forms up and I catch the clean end of the wave as it starts to break going left, I'm up and the wave pushed me left and away I go down the line and then just as suddenly as I'm up and away, the wave dies out and I turn out. I paddle around and let the gun surfers around me catch a few and then I finally get on to one, which is a reform from out the back but I manage to go left down the line and then turn more straight on as it reforms and it takes me nearly all the way to beach. At this point I have been out here about 45 mins and I decide to head in and take advantage of the great weather and try a surf at Rye.
I get changed with the intention of going to Rye beach but on the way I see the sign for St. Andrews and think well why not try there. St. Andrews is further west down the same beach stretch of coast as Gunna and about a 10 minute drive, albeit a bit windy and confusing. I get to St. Andrews and the conditions are identical although not as crowded and the waves look slightly more benign. St Andrews is classic beach break but with rocks around the entry to the water and there are some clear gates to go out from here. You walk down through the dunes and it's a great stretch of beach. I head out through a sand gate between the rocks, waiting for a break in the waves and then I'm off paddling. Nice paddle out the back of about 50-60 meters and I just sit and wait for a good wave. The off-shore wind seems slightly stringer and the waves are holding up a bit and it means they are just not forming up as you expect. There are some good surfers out and I'm the only bloke on a longboard in my area - there are three breaks working across the beach and the surfers are quite well spread out.
I have been out about 20 mins and not had any luck, fallen of the back of a few and probably not taken my chances on quite a few and then along comes my wave of the day - I get up quickly and head straight as the waves breaks in front, it then reforms and I turn up and down the face heading right and it takes me all the way to the beach. A great ride and I decide to call it quits and head home.
St Andrew's is a good choice of beach when Gunna is crowded and conditions are good - as the conditions are nearly the same but you have less crowds.
A successful day and I'm pretty happy with two breaks in one day and I think I need 30 breaks down at the end of March to be on track.
Friday, February 25, 2011
Break 21- Urquart's Bluff
Sunday 19th February and the day awakes as a pretty nice day and surf forecast is good too. Sam and I are "batching it" this weekend with Sue away. Sam is tired and sleeps in till about 10.30 and we don't hit the road till nearly 11.00 am and we are heading to the west coast again as I need to go to Anglesea to pick up something I left in cafe the week before. As we get closer to Geelong the wind and weather start to change and I am feeling no so optimistic about the surf prospects.
We get to Anglesea and we decide to try urquarts bluff - it's probably the third time in recent weeks we are having a look there. Driving along the magnificant greta ocean road it does not look great in the water - the wind has blown out the surf and it's pretty messy. Urquarts bluff is protected by a large rock bluff (surprise, surprise!!) and I think it may be ok. We arrive and there are surferes out but it's a little messy. We decide to head out away.
There is a strong rip in the water dragging you down the beach away from the point and Sam and I watch surfers entering the water towards the bluff end of the beach. We do likewise and start going out. It's very messy and most waves are on the reform, rather than clean. I head out the back and I manage to catch four waves in about 30-40 mins of surfing - I have to come in twice and head back out though as I have been dragged down the beach. The wave is a righ breaking wave but today the rides are pretty short. I get two good waves where I manage to go cleanly down and across and face and turn out the back of the wave - neither are particularly long rides but I was up quickly and enjoyed the rides. Sam has a fairly frustrating time just getting out amongst the mess, but lets me know that he got a couple of rides in the whitewater.
Urquarts Bluff is a pretty little spot and worth a visit but I wouldn't write home about the waves and that's perhaps why in the surf guides it tends to get only a passing mention at best.
29 breaks to go and 24 weekends left. It will be touch and go I think and I need to have a week off work I think to make it happen.
We get to Anglesea and we decide to try urquarts bluff - it's probably the third time in recent weeks we are having a look there. Driving along the magnificant greta ocean road it does not look great in the water - the wind has blown out the surf and it's pretty messy. Urquarts bluff is protected by a large rock bluff (surprise, surprise!!) and I think it may be ok. We arrive and there are surferes out but it's a little messy. We decide to head out away.
There is a strong rip in the water dragging you down the beach away from the point and Sam and I watch surfers entering the water towards the bluff end of the beach. We do likewise and start going out. It's very messy and most waves are on the reform, rather than clean. I head out the back and I manage to catch four waves in about 30-40 mins of surfing - I have to come in twice and head back out though as I have been dragged down the beach. The wave is a righ breaking wave but today the rides are pretty short. I get two good waves where I manage to go cleanly down and across and face and turn out the back of the wave - neither are particularly long rides but I was up quickly and enjoyed the rides. Sam has a fairly frustrating time just getting out amongst the mess, but lets me know that he got a couple of rides in the whitewater.
Urquarts Bluff is a pretty little spot and worth a visit but I wouldn't write home about the waves and that's perhaps why in the surf guides it tends to get only a passing mention at best.
29 breaks to go and 24 weekends left. It will be touch and go I think and I need to have a week off work I think to make it happen.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Break 20 - Sunnymeade Beach (Airey's Inlet)
Sunday 13th February and its a pretty ordinary sort of summer day. It's about 17 degrees, grey, with expected rain then a few sunny breaks in the afternoon - temperature expected to get up to about 23/24 degrees. We decide to focus on the prospect of sunny breaks and head to the West Coast. I am thinking we will go to Urquarts Bluff which is on past Anglesea and should take us about 1.5 to 2.0 hours. Today Sam, Susan and I are all going and I am hoping for some waves, although forecast is not fantastic - wind south westerly, conditions expected to be messy and waves to 1 meter.
We head off about 10.30 and at about 12.15 we are heading through Anglesea and the forecast looks pretty accurate as we drive through - its messy and not very attractive. We get to Urquarts Bluff and it's hopeless - crowded with a Union picnic gathering and hopeless surf. We then head onto Fairhaven and it's pretty ordinary there as well. We drive back towards Anglesea and decide to check out Airey's Inlet, we stop near the lighthouse and it's not looking great. We head back in the car and then as we head out of Airey's we decide to check out a dirt road and see what, if any beach, is down there. We get out at the car park at then end of the road and lo and behold in the water are three or four surfers getting a few waves on a beach with a right hand point break - the beach is called Sunnymeade.
Sunnymeade is not in my surf guide books and it turns out to be really great little spot. Sunnymeade has a winding 400 meter walk through bush down to a beach, which is set against spectacular red cliffs and the bush background. The waves are breaking out at the point over a sandy bottom and there are some fun, right handers with quite good rides and waves about 2 foot to maybe the odd, very odd 3 foot.
Sam and I head out and within minutes I get onto a great little wave - up quickly, head right and along the face, turning right and up to extend the wave and then out the back - Yohooooooooooo. A great way to start. Sam gets a couple of waves and then I get two more - one is probably 1 foot I reckon but I really enjoy the wave it's clean and I just cut along the face and sit on top before tumbling off the end. In about 30-40 mins I get 4 good waves in a spectacular setting. The water is beautiful and clear and the sun is out - just perfect.
After the surf we head into Anglesea for something to eat and Sam insists we go to Ocean Corner - which as you might guess is right on the corner, opposite the beach in Anglesea. The food is pretty good, great pies and salad rolls and Sam has calamari and chips which he raves about. Another day over and new break found - always good to find a protected surf in a SW wind. Looks like it would be best on a low to mid tide, which is when we were there.
We head off about 10.30 and at about 12.15 we are heading through Anglesea and the forecast looks pretty accurate as we drive through - its messy and not very attractive. We get to Urquarts Bluff and it's hopeless - crowded with a Union picnic gathering and hopeless surf. We then head onto Fairhaven and it's pretty ordinary there as well. We drive back towards Anglesea and decide to check out Airey's Inlet, we stop near the lighthouse and it's not looking great. We head back in the car and then as we head out of Airey's we decide to check out a dirt road and see what, if any beach, is down there. We get out at the car park at then end of the road and lo and behold in the water are three or four surfers getting a few waves on a beach with a right hand point break - the beach is called Sunnymeade.
Sunnymeade is not in my surf guide books and it turns out to be really great little spot. Sunnymeade has a winding 400 meter walk through bush down to a beach, which is set against spectacular red cliffs and the bush background. The waves are breaking out at the point over a sandy bottom and there are some fun, right handers with quite good rides and waves about 2 foot to maybe the odd, very odd 3 foot.
Sam and I head out and within minutes I get onto a great little wave - up quickly, head right and along the face, turning right and up to extend the wave and then out the back - Yohooooooooooo. A great way to start. Sam gets a couple of waves and then I get two more - one is probably 1 foot I reckon but I really enjoy the wave it's clean and I just cut along the face and sit on top before tumbling off the end. In about 30-40 mins I get 4 good waves in a spectacular setting. The water is beautiful and clear and the sun is out - just perfect.
After the surf we head into Anglesea for something to eat and Sam insists we go to Ocean Corner - which as you might guess is right on the corner, opposite the beach in Anglesea. The food is pretty good, great pies and salad rolls and Sam has calamari and chips which he raves about. Another day over and new break found - always good to find a protected surf in a SW wind. Looks like it would be best on a low to mid tide, which is when we were there.
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Break 19 - Big Left @ Flinders
Friday 4th February and I knock off work early to go to Flinders. I arrive about 2.45 and it is grey and stormy but there seems quite a good swell out. I haven't been to Flinders for a surf before and it's a bit of a hike down through the pine trees, across a paddock and then down some winding steps to a black beach of rocks. Its very rural and I imagine it to be what surfing in Ireland would look like - green paddocks and black basalt cliffs with rain pelting down. I choose Big Left over Cyrills which is a bit further on to my right over a further stretch of rocks.
The paddle out to big left is not for the faint hearted. It's about 400 meters over black water and today its very grey ovderhead - it seems very sharky to me. About 5 mins in the rain gets heavier and lightning is striking so near you can see it. A surfer comes towards me saying he thinks the lightning is only 3-5kms away and he is getting out till it goes away. I think about it but decide to keep going. After what seems and age I get out the back where there are three other surfers. The waves coming through are big - 1.5 meters at least and heavy. I go over a couple and then get caught in between two big waves and get carried back some way. I paddlle back and sit for a while. I see a bloke take off and get wiped out. I decide to paddle in a bit and see if I can get onto something smaller or gentler. I get nothing for 10 mins - meanwhile the storm seems to be buidling and with it the waves. I decide to head in and try one last wave by paddling back out a bit more. I get set for a wave and start paddling but I can feel myself going to go over - I pull back and just drop off and decide thats it I'm out.
I paddle back thinking can you count this as a surf when you don't get a wave. I am going to count it on the basis of the effort I put in. It's a monster paddle back and the weather conditions don't help. I knew the weather was going to turn today because of the cyclone effects from up North but this has been incredible.
I'd like to try big left again as the setting is spectacular and perhaps I will after another 31 breaks are completed. And I can always do Cyrills, next store.
The paddle out to big left is not for the faint hearted. It's about 400 meters over black water and today its very grey ovderhead - it seems very sharky to me. About 5 mins in the rain gets heavier and lightning is striking so near you can see it. A surfer comes towards me saying he thinks the lightning is only 3-5kms away and he is getting out till it goes away. I think about it but decide to keep going. After what seems and age I get out the back where there are three other surfers. The waves coming through are big - 1.5 meters at least and heavy. I go over a couple and then get caught in between two big waves and get carried back some way. I paddlle back and sit for a while. I see a bloke take off and get wiped out. I decide to paddle in a bit and see if I can get onto something smaller or gentler. I get nothing for 10 mins - meanwhile the storm seems to be buidling and with it the waves. I decide to head in and try one last wave by paddling back out a bit more. I get set for a wave and start paddling but I can feel myself going to go over - I pull back and just drop off and decide thats it I'm out.
I paddle back thinking can you count this as a surf when you don't get a wave. I am going to count it on the basis of the effort I put in. It's a monster paddle back and the weather conditions don't help. I knew the weather was going to turn today because of the cyclone effects from up North but this has been incredible.
I'd like to try big left again as the setting is spectacular and perhaps I will after another 31 breaks are completed. And I can always do Cyrills, next store.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Break 18 - Anglesea main beach
26th January and on the way back from Apollo Bay. We stop at Anglesea and it's crowded in and out of the water, the sun is shining and the waves are 1-2 foot and clean. Sam is keen for a surf and he's in the water in no time. I sit on the beach for a while, hoping the crowd might die down. The crowd doesn't shrink but the waves look good fun and I head out.
It's a really fun session with lotts of small right hand waves. Sam is out for a good hour and a half and gets lots of waves. I get a few waves and it's fun. It's such a nice day on the beach and I can really see why Anglesea is such a popular beach spot. It's protected and I gather the waves are pretty consistent, albeit crowded and not too big. There's plenty of eating in Anglesea and if you've never been there it's worth stopping.
Break 18 down and I will be trying for 19 and perhaps 20 this weekend.
It's a really fun session with lotts of small right hand waves. Sam is out for a good hour and a half and gets lots of waves. I get a few waves and it's fun. It's such a nice day on the beach and I can really see why Anglesea is such a popular beach spot. It's protected and I gather the waves are pretty consistent, albeit crowded and not too big. There's plenty of eating in Anglesea and if you've never been there it's worth stopping.
Break 18 down and I will be trying for 19 and perhaps 20 this weekend.
Break 17 - Kennett River (going off!!)
Wednesday 26th January, Australia Day and Sue, Sam and I are heading to Apollo Bay to pick up the Camera we left behind in Cafe 153 at Apollo Bay. Sam also left his Ipod in the house we rented and we are also picking that up. When we leave Melbourne it's a misty, grey day with light rain and it's about 20 degrees. As we head through Geelong and down to Anglesea the weather is clearing up and it's turning into a lovely sunny day. There's a bit of surf around as we drive through Lorne and Wye and when we get to Kennett River it's right on low tide at about 10.45.
Kennett River is right on the Great Ocean Rd about 30 mins past Lorne and about 10 mins on from Wye River. Kennett is a point break, best accessed from the rocks and only works on the low tide. Today we are really lucky as "it's on" and waves are 1 meter with 1.5 metre waves coming through. There's probably 20 in the water and it's a really beautiful morning.
I go out from the rocks and am quickly and easily out the back. Sam enters from the beach and it's still an easy paddle around the breaking waves. I get a wave early and it's a slow right breaking wave and manage to ride down the wave and into the reform for a long and satisfying wave. I get a couple of shorter rides and then I get my best wave of the last 16 breaks. I paddle onto 1.5 meter wave and get up and just when I think I'm not on I move further forward on the Board and then I'm down the face and really going, I get down low and sweep right across the face, turn down and catch the reform, crouching low sweeping down and across again and then ride off the back. I punch the air and just feel fantastic - that's a ride.
I catch another great wave and then I'm out of the water. Sam catches only 1 wave but he reckons it was real beauty and "powerful". It's a great session and Kennett when it's on is a great wave. We head to Apollo for lunch with the aim of catching Break 18 on the way back.
Kennett River is right on the Great Ocean Rd about 30 mins past Lorne and about 10 mins on from Wye River. Kennett is a point break, best accessed from the rocks and only works on the low tide. Today we are really lucky as "it's on" and waves are 1 meter with 1.5 metre waves coming through. There's probably 20 in the water and it's a really beautiful morning.
I go out from the rocks and am quickly and easily out the back. Sam enters from the beach and it's still an easy paddle around the breaking waves. I get a wave early and it's a slow right breaking wave and manage to ride down the wave and into the reform for a long and satisfying wave. I get a couple of shorter rides and then I get my best wave of the last 16 breaks. I paddle onto 1.5 meter wave and get up and just when I think I'm not on I move further forward on the Board and then I'm down the face and really going, I get down low and sweep right across the face, turn down and catch the reform, crouching low sweeping down and across again and then ride off the back. I punch the air and just feel fantastic - that's a ride.
I catch another great wave and then I'm out of the water. Sam catches only 1 wave but he reckons it was real beauty and "powerful". It's a great session and Kennett when it's on is a great wave. We head to Apollo for lunch with the aim of catching Break 18 on the way back.
Sunday, January 23, 2011
Break 16 - Point roadknight
Sunday 23rd Jan and its the last day of our beach holiday. Sad to be leaving Apollo Bay but the weather the last two days has been bizarre. While it has been lovely and sunny in Melbourne it's has been wet and misty in Apollo. We head off about 10.45 in steady rain and we're looking for a surf on the way home. We take the Great Ocean Rd, possibly the most spectacular road trip in the world driving right next to the ocean for 40kms from Apollo Bay through to the Anglesea. We stop at Lorne and there are waves at the point but it is very crowded and so we, or should I say Susan, has a shop and then we head off again towards Torquay.
Going through Fairhaven and heading to Anglesea we spot the Point Roadknight turnoff and decide to give it a go. We head into the carpark and it is really crowded and a look at the beach indicates waves out the back off the point and also closer in towards the middle. The wave is pretty gentle and normally works best on a medium to high tide with a decent swell. Today it's probably 2 foot with the odd 3 foot wave coming through.
Sam and I head out and while Sam stays closer in and more in the middle section, I head out the back and more to the point. Point Roadknight is a small horseshoe shaped bay with the waves coming off the rocky point and breaking over sand. I get a few waves but it's pretty frustrating and I can see that it would be much better on a stronger and bigger swell. The wave when your on is a pretty gentle right hand break and great for longboarders or new surfers. I get a few waves and then think about tyring to find Sam. I then spot him back on the beach - frustrated by waves that just don't form up and the crowds. Anyway I've had a reasonable surf - 3 waves and about 30 minutes in water. It's a nice beach and I''ll come back after I've done another 34 breaks to try it again.
Bring on 20.
Going through Fairhaven and heading to Anglesea we spot the Point Roadknight turnoff and decide to give it a go. We head into the carpark and it is really crowded and a look at the beach indicates waves out the back off the point and also closer in towards the middle. The wave is pretty gentle and normally works best on a medium to high tide with a decent swell. Today it's probably 2 foot with the odd 3 foot wave coming through.
Sam and I head out and while Sam stays closer in and more in the middle section, I head out the back and more to the point. Point Roadknight is a small horseshoe shaped bay with the waves coming off the rocky point and breaking over sand. I get a few waves but it's pretty frustrating and I can see that it would be much better on a stronger and bigger swell. The wave when your on is a pretty gentle right hand break and great for longboarders or new surfers. I get a few waves and then think about tyring to find Sam. I then spot him back on the beach - frustrated by waves that just don't form up and the crowds. Anyway I've had a reasonable surf - 3 waves and about 30 minutes in water. It's a nice beach and I''ll come back after I've done another 34 breaks to try it again.
Bring on 20.
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Break 15 - Wye River
Tuesday 18th january and I'm heading home to Melbourne after 8 days in Apollo Bay, 5 of which involved substantial amounts of rain. I head home down the Great Ocean Road and decide to stop at Wye River for two reasons - one for a surf and two to check out the new cafe. The surf is ok - waves up to 1 meter but the wind is blowing off-shore holding up the waves.
Wye river beach is right opposite a big caravan park, has a great pub with the best outdoor area in Victoria, if not Australia and has a great, hilly bushland background to the beach. The wave is reasonably consistent from what I have seen and you can get both a left hand and right hand breaks happening over sand. Today there is some action on the left hand side of the beach when facing the water. I head out there and join two young blokes already out there. I am out there about 2 minutes when I paddle onto a slow right hander and am off down the face, bottom out, turn up and go right and then over and out the back of the wave. A nice ride and I think here we go this could be a good day. Suffice to say over the next 15 minutes I catch nothing with the off-shore playing havoc with the waves - they form up and then just seem to dissapear before reforming and crashing closer to the beach.
I stay out about 40 minutes and in the end I get about three waves but the setting is great and I've had the exercise I need for the day. It's another break down and I did enjoy juts sitting and admiring the coast - all the breaks along the Great Ocean Road are spectacular and if you've never been down this way you've just got to go.
Once out of the water I check out the cafe, which is a post office, newsagent, general store and cafe in actual fact. I just order a coffee and it's very good but looking around at what else is on offer, I would recommend slotting the cafe in for a nice relaxing breakfast or lunch after a surf. 15 down and bring on 20.
Wye river beach is right opposite a big caravan park, has a great pub with the best outdoor area in Victoria, if not Australia and has a great, hilly bushland background to the beach. The wave is reasonably consistent from what I have seen and you can get both a left hand and right hand breaks happening over sand. Today there is some action on the left hand side of the beach when facing the water. I head out there and join two young blokes already out there. I am out there about 2 minutes when I paddle onto a slow right hander and am off down the face, bottom out, turn up and go right and then over and out the back of the wave. A nice ride and I think here we go this could be a good day. Suffice to say over the next 15 minutes I catch nothing with the off-shore playing havoc with the waves - they form up and then just seem to dissapear before reforming and crashing closer to the beach.
I stay out about 40 minutes and in the end I get about three waves but the setting is great and I've had the exercise I need for the day. It's another break down and I did enjoy juts sitting and admiring the coast - all the breaks along the Great Ocean Road are spectacular and if you've never been down this way you've just got to go.
Once out of the water I check out the cafe, which is a post office, newsagent, general store and cafe in actual fact. I just order a coffee and it's very good but looking around at what else is on offer, I would recommend slotting the cafe in for a nice relaxing breakfast or lunch after a surf. 15 down and bring on 20.
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Break 14 - Skenes Creek
Sunday 16th January and I'm going surfing with my oldest son Michael today. He's coming down from a Sat. night but is up early and keen for a surf. We're still away on holidays at Apollo Bay and so we head to Skene's Creek in search of a wave. Skene's Creek is about 5 km from Apollo Bay and is a pretty reliable break with left and right hand beach breaks depending on the sand. Today, Victoria is pretty flat in terms of surf and when we get to Skene's it's got 1 to 2 foot waves with reasonable breaks in between sets. There are about four people out and so we decide to give it a crack.
The positive is that its easy to get out - takes about 30 seconds to get out the back and wait for a wave. This is great for Michael because he hasn't been surfing for a couple of years. We both get rides pretty quickly and Michael is up and away on a short left hand breaking wave and is pretty stoked to get a ride early and he also gets up smoothly and quickly. I catch a really good left hander early on and its a great little ride, smooth and lazy drifting along and up and out of the wave. The setting at Skene's is unbelievable - hills in the background to beach, spectacular scenic views to Apollo Bay and blue, blue water. The setting is great and then it is offset by a pod of dolphins swimming in the background - it is such a great site as a small pod of 3 dolphins are leaping out of the water and cruising in the background.
We surf for about 50 mins and both get our share of waves and wipeouts and it's a very enjoyable session in a spectacular setting. If you've never been to Apollo Bay - go because it's a great launching place for surfing (Johanna etc) and its got heaps to do - waterfalls, cafe's, great ocean walk etc etc. Break 14 down and I'm looking for 20-25 before the end of Jan.
The positive is that its easy to get out - takes about 30 seconds to get out the back and wait for a wave. This is great for Michael because he hasn't been surfing for a couple of years. We both get rides pretty quickly and Michael is up and away on a short left hand breaking wave and is pretty stoked to get a ride early and he also gets up smoothly and quickly. I catch a really good left hander early on and its a great little ride, smooth and lazy drifting along and up and out of the wave. The setting at Skene's is unbelievable - hills in the background to beach, spectacular scenic views to Apollo Bay and blue, blue water. The setting is great and then it is offset by a pod of dolphins swimming in the background - it is such a great site as a small pod of 3 dolphins are leaping out of the water and cruising in the background.
We surf for about 50 mins and both get our share of waves and wipeouts and it's a very enjoyable session in a spectacular setting. If you've never been to Apollo Bay - go because it's a great launching place for surfing (Johanna etc) and its got heaps to do - waterfalls, cafe's, great ocean walk etc etc. Break 14 down and I'm looking for 20-25 before the end of Jan.
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Apollo Bay - Break 13
Wednesday 12th January and I am at Apollo Bay, deep on the west coast of Victoria on holidays and its been raining since Monday when we arrived. The surf is just ok and Ollie, 21 year old second eldest son of the family we go away with has been in surfing each day with Sam and they have been surfing the main beach. The good waves are pretty few and far between but for Sam and Alex, younger sister of Ollie (18) they have been getting good waves in whitewater and having a good surf.
This morning it was absolutely pelting down when Sam and I went out to near the pier to catch a few waves. The pier is longboard heaven - small, long rides from out the back on 1-2 foot waves. I catch a few waves and get a couple of good rides with Sam yelling for me to walk the Board, which I manage once nearly hanging five. The rain is absolutely belting down though with the wind quite strong as well and we both last about 40 minutes and then are happy to just get out of the water and head back in.
Apollo Bay is a great town for holidays with plenty of cafes and also great walks and other things to do and so with rain forecast for the rest of the week and not great surf we will have plenty of time to explore all it has to offer. We have been coming here for the last twenty years and so we know the place pretty well and can't recommend it highly enough. Sam has already begun his annual quest to be Uno champion and he has brough to the house the same vidos that are watched pretty much every year - Stand by me, Scrubs Series DVDs, Love Actually and on the list goes.
Anyway Break 13 down and should be able to get 14 and perhaps 15 before the week is out although the surf forecast is not great.
This morning it was absolutely pelting down when Sam and I went out to near the pier to catch a few waves. The pier is longboard heaven - small, long rides from out the back on 1-2 foot waves. I catch a few waves and get a couple of good rides with Sam yelling for me to walk the Board, which I manage once nearly hanging five. The rain is absolutely belting down though with the wind quite strong as well and we both last about 40 minutes and then are happy to just get out of the water and head back in.
Apollo Bay is a great town for holidays with plenty of cafes and also great walks and other things to do and so with rain forecast for the rest of the week and not great surf we will have plenty of time to explore all it has to offer. We have been coming here for the last twenty years and so we know the place pretty well and can't recommend it highly enough. Sam has already begun his annual quest to be Uno champion and he has brough to the house the same vidos that are watched pretty much every year - Stand by me, Scrubs Series DVDs, Love Actually and on the list goes.
Anyway Break 13 down and should be able to get 14 and perhaps 15 before the week is out although the surf forecast is not great.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)