Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Break 17 - Kennett River (going off!!)

Wednesday 26th January, Australia Day and Sue, Sam and I are heading to Apollo Bay to pick up the Camera we left behind in Cafe 153 at Apollo Bay.  Sam also left his Ipod in the house we rented and we are also picking that up.  When we leave Melbourne it's a misty, grey day with light rain and it's about 20 degrees.  As we head through Geelong and down to Anglesea the weather is clearing up and it's turning into a lovely sunny day.  There's a bit of surf around as we drive through Lorne and Wye and when we get to Kennett River it's right on low tide at about 10.45.

Kennett River is right on the Great Ocean Rd about 30 mins past Lorne and about 10 mins on from Wye River.  Kennett is a point break, best accessed from the rocks and only works on the low tide.  Today we are really lucky as "it's on" and waves are 1 meter with 1.5 metre waves coming through.  There's probably 20 in the water and it's a really beautiful morning.

I go out from the rocks and am quickly and easily out the back.  Sam enters from the beach and it's still an easy paddle around the breaking waves.  I get a wave early and it's a slow right breaking wave and  manage to ride down the wave and into the reform for a long and satisfying wave.  I get a couple of shorter rides and then I get my best wave of the last 16 breaks.  I paddle onto 1.5 meter wave and get up and just when I think I'm not on I move further forward on the Board and then I'm down the face and really going, I get down low and sweep right across the face, turn down and catch the reform, crouching low sweeping down and across again and then ride off the back.  I punch the air and just feel fantastic - that's a ride.

I catch another great wave and then I'm out of the water.  Sam catches only 1 wave but he reckons it was real beauty and "powerful".  It's a great session and Kennett when it's on is a great wave.  We head to Apollo for lunch with the aim of catching Break 18 on the way back.

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