Break 38 - Kilcunda

Monday 12th June and we are heading home from two great days in Cape Paterson.  We leave after breakfast in Inverloch about 11.00 and get to Kilcunda about midday. The day is again tremendous - blue sky and light wind.  We park at the first car park out of Kilcunda and wander down to beach along the creek, under the railway bridge and enter the beach near the rocks.  The surf is good and clean but with long wait between sets.  The waves are two to three foot and there are some good waves to be have.

I head out with Sam and tell him to be careful as the rip is legendary.  We get out easily and sit out the back over very dark water - I find Kilcunda creepy to surf because of the dark colour of the water.  We have been out about 5 mins when I get onto a great right hander and go right down the face and turn out as the wave breaks into whitewater - it was a good 3ft and I am feeling very pumped when I get out to sam and ask him if he saw it.  I then call Sam onto a wave and up he goes and then down he goes just as quickly.  He is dumped and the board crashes over - he goes into shore and then paddles back out.  However Sam doesn't have much luck and is dumped again about 5 mins later and he heads into shore.


I spend about 40 mins out and after that first wave don't have much luck, always seeming to find myself in the wrong spot.  Sue and Sam tell me later that I was taking off to early and sitting in the wrong spot.  They also tell me the old bloke out with me gets tubed twice - that's comforting!!  I do get a couple of good waves and again really enjoy the surf and I do have  a good shot of me "going right at killers"  to remember this by - see below.  38 breaks down and twelve to go by August 9 - it will be touch and go but I remain confident.