Friday 1st April and I have a day off between jobs and so have headed to Warnambool in the deep west of Victoria to get some surf and chill out.
Warnambool is about 3.5 hours from Melbourne and I arrive about 2.00 pm and check out the best known break - japs at Logans Beach and its terrible and so I head into town towards my accomodation and the main beach. I pull up next to the surf club and check the beach - its blowing a fair gale and the wind is on shore which doesn't make for the best conditions. I decide to head out anyway and there's one other bloke out there as well trying to catch a wave. The swell is about 2 foot and I head out the back. I catch a wave nearly straight away and it's about a five second wave down the face before "dumper" down she goes and I ride some whitewater. I get another couple of waves, including one slightly longer ride and then head out. I can see why they call it windy Warnambool.
Warnambool is a really great town, the main beach is great and the walks around the beach and across to thunder point are truly worth a look. The main beach, Lady bay is a beginner/intermediate wave and Logans beach is more intermediate/experienced surfer.
Sunday, April 3, 2011
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Break 26 - Lorne
Friday 25th March and Sue, Sam and I are heading to Lorne on the Great Ocean Road about an hour from Torquay. We arrive about 3.00 pm and there is a bit of swell and it's very clean. The main break at Lorne is on the point front of the surf club. On low tide it breaks best about 200 meters off shore and is best directly from the rocks on the righ hand side leading out to the pier. On mid to high tide there can be some decent waves directly accessable from the beach, near the surf club. It's mid tide for Sam and I and the only action is closer in to the beach. There are about four blokes out - 2 longboarders and a couple of short boarders.
Sam and I both get out the back with ease, with access close to the rocks taking you round the break. The sets have nice break between them and the waves are about 2 foot with perhaps the odd 2.5 to 3 foot. The waves are holding up a bit in a light off shore wind but otherwise it's a really beautiful day - about 18-20 degrees and blue skies in Lorne. Lorne is so picturesque with the rocks on the left hand side, a broad stretch of beach and the hills in the background and today it's just nice sitting out the back.
Sam gets on to a wave early and I can see him get up and then disappear and it's only after a few seconds that I see him re-emerge riding the wave into the beach - he let's me know later it's one of his best waves ever. I catch a few and really enjoy the session and get one beauty of a wave on which I get a great ride all the way to the beach as I get a reform half way in. We both get plenty of waves (one photo example below) and about 40 minutes in we are joined by two loder guys on their mals who declare "you two have had it too good for too long and we've come to get some waves". True to their word they start getting them and the term "wave hog" was coined for these blokes, although they do it in good spirits and have plenty of fun.
We spend the next two days on Lorne and for a break I thought fickle it is extremely consistent, if small across the whole weekend. We also head to Kennet River on the Saturday and that was firing on the low tide. I recommened the Wye River Cafe for a stop on the Great Ocean Rd and also Lorne has the best Hamburger joint in Australia - this may surprise you but the hot lentil was the best burger I have had. It does great chicken and beef burgers as well.
I have a few days off at the end of this week and so hope to get to 30 breaks by the end of March.
Sam and I both get out the back with ease, with access close to the rocks taking you round the break. The sets have nice break between them and the waves are about 2 foot with perhaps the odd 2.5 to 3 foot. The waves are holding up a bit in a light off shore wind but otherwise it's a really beautiful day - about 18-20 degrees and blue skies in Lorne. Lorne is so picturesque with the rocks on the left hand side, a broad stretch of beach and the hills in the background and today it's just nice sitting out the back.
Sam gets on to a wave early and I can see him get up and then disappear and it's only after a few seconds that I see him re-emerge riding the wave into the beach - he let's me know later it's one of his best waves ever. I catch a few and really enjoy the session and get one beauty of a wave on which I get a great ride all the way to the beach as I get a reform half way in. We both get plenty of waves (one photo example below) and about 40 minutes in we are joined by two loder guys on their mals who declare "you two have had it too good for too long and we've come to get some waves". True to their word they start getting them and the term "wave hog" was coined for these blokes, although they do it in good spirits and have plenty of fun.
We spend the next two days on Lorne and for a break I thought fickle it is extremely consistent, if small across the whole weekend. We also head to Kennet River on the Saturday and that was firing on the low tide. I recommened the Wye River Cafe for a stop on the Great Ocean Rd and also Lorne has the best Hamburger joint in Australia - this may surprise you but the hot lentil was the best burger I have had. It does great chicken and beef burgers as well.
I have a few days off at the end of this week and so hope to get to 30 breaks by the end of March.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Break 25 - Cozey Corner (front beach Torquay)
Sunday 20th March and it's a cloudy morning following a fair bit of rain in the night. I check the webcams and surf reports and I'm not filled with huge hope but get Sam up about 7.40 and tell him we'll head to Torquay and check it out. We pick up his mate Louey and head off just after 8.00 am.
We get a great run down to Torquay and we are out of the car checking out the small surf at 9.30 and in the water by 9.40. Not too many people out and the weather is fantastic - clear sky, virtually no wind and a moderate temp. of about 20 or so. The front beach at Torquay gets some swell coming round the reef from Point Danger and into the bay. It's a beginners and Mal wave and that's reflected in the crowd in the water. The waves are probably about 1 foot mostly with the occassional 2 to 2.5 foot wave coming through. The waves are holding up a bit but when you're on it's a fun wave and you can get a good 20 meter ride into the beach and I imagine on bigger days you could have a lot of fun from out the back.
The two boys catch a fair few waves and have a good time, mostly catching reforms or at times standing in the surf and then just pushing straight onto the waves. I get a couple of great little waves including a nice little wave where I headed right and turned around to give the boys the big Mick Fanning Victory salute as I headed right down the wave. All in all a fun little session and I have milked Torquay for all it's worth, with this being break no. 3 there. It's time to move on and I need 30 by the end of March/first week in April to stay on track.
We get a great run down to Torquay and we are out of the car checking out the small surf at 9.30 and in the water by 9.40. Not too many people out and the weather is fantastic - clear sky, virtually no wind and a moderate temp. of about 20 or so. The front beach at Torquay gets some swell coming round the reef from Point Danger and into the bay. It's a beginners and Mal wave and that's reflected in the crowd in the water. The waves are probably about 1 foot mostly with the occassional 2 to 2.5 foot wave coming through. The waves are holding up a bit but when you're on it's a fun wave and you can get a good 20 meter ride into the beach and I imagine on bigger days you could have a lot of fun from out the back.
The two boys catch a fair few waves and have a good time, mostly catching reforms or at times standing in the surf and then just pushing straight onto the waves. I get a couple of great little waves including a nice little wave where I headed right and turned around to give the boys the big Mick Fanning Victory salute as I headed right down the wave. All in all a fun little session and I have milked Torquay for all it's worth, with this being break no. 3 there. It's time to move on and I need 30 by the end of March/first week in April to stay on track.
Monday, March 14, 2011
Break 24 - Point Danger, Torquay
Sunday 13th March and we decide to head to Torquay and check out Cosy Corner on the front beach - Susan (our official photographer), Sam and myself. The weather when we leave about 8.00 am is looking great and and as we are heading off reasonably early we hope for a good run down to Geelong. The trip flies and we are down there at 9.30 am easy - cosy corner, which is on the front beach at Torquay is hopeless though, flat as a tack and the tide going out. We check out Point Danger on the left hand edge of Torquay surf beach (the opposite end to the surf club) and it is going fine. The waves are two to three feet and there are only six to ten people out and reasonably spread out.
Sam and I head out from the path down from the car park, about 40 meters or so across from the point itself, heading to Torquay. There's a right hander breaking with some left hander further across towards towards Torquay main beach. It's a bit scrambly getting out across thr rocks but once through that it's an easy paddle out as the sets have a decent wait between them.
I get quite a decent ride early on, getting up quick and heading right and then turning off the back of the wave. I'm feeling pretty chuffed at this point and looking forward to the session. This feeling doesn't last too long though as a I just fail to get onto a few and also have at least two rides lined up only to give way to a bloke on the inside both times. I'm getting quite frustrated and then this is topped off by an attempt to go too late on a wave which sees me absolutely wiped out and my board pinged about 4 feet into the air as I go straight over the top. I get up laughing at the sight of a young gun paddling out who is in fits at my stack and I decide to chill out and get back in the line-up.
I then just sit out the back for about 10 minutes and take in the great day, have a chat to Sam about how he is going and decide to be more patient. The change in attitude pays off as I get a nice little wave that I take left and manage to work into the reform. I head back out and then get my wave of the day - It's a two and half foot wave that I paddle hard onto and then get up, move right down the wave as it breaks and keep riding. It then reforms and I go up and right and keep heading down the line until it breaks again and then I drop down and ride all the way in to the edge of the rocks. Great ride and I decide to head out very content.
We get changed and then head for brunch - we go to point bake in Torquay and it is fantastic. Great bacon, avocado, tomato and lettuce toasted sandwich. Sue has the same but with chicken and Sam has chips. Great meal. We then head back to the beach and Sam has another surf and get's a couple of good rides before the weather turns real bad - wind, rain and clouds come over very quickly. We then head to the surf shops at Torquay and buy a few goodies and then home. Great day and break 24 down. I think 30 by the end of the month is realistic as I have a few days off towards the end and then I reckon I'm looking good for 50.
Sam and I head out from the path down from the car park, about 40 meters or so across from the point itself, heading to Torquay. There's a right hander breaking with some left hander further across towards towards Torquay main beach. It's a bit scrambly getting out across thr rocks but once through that it's an easy paddle out as the sets have a decent wait between them.
I get quite a decent ride early on, getting up quick and heading right and then turning off the back of the wave. I'm feeling pretty chuffed at this point and looking forward to the session. This feeling doesn't last too long though as a I just fail to get onto a few and also have at least two rides lined up only to give way to a bloke on the inside both times. I'm getting quite frustrated and then this is topped off by an attempt to go too late on a wave which sees me absolutely wiped out and my board pinged about 4 feet into the air as I go straight over the top. I get up laughing at the sight of a young gun paddling out who is in fits at my stack and I decide to chill out and get back in the line-up.
I then just sit out the back for about 10 minutes and take in the great day, have a chat to Sam about how he is going and decide to be more patient. The change in attitude pays off as I get a nice little wave that I take left and manage to work into the reform. I head back out and then get my wave of the day - It's a two and half foot wave that I paddle hard onto and then get up, move right down the wave as it breaks and keep riding. It then reforms and I go up and right and keep heading down the line until it breaks again and then I drop down and ride all the way in to the edge of the rocks. Great ride and I decide to head out very content.
We get changed and then head for brunch - we go to point bake in Torquay and it is fantastic. Great bacon, avocado, tomato and lettuce toasted sandwich. Sue has the same but with chicken and Sam has chips. Great meal. We then head back to the beach and Sam has another surf and get's a couple of good rides before the weather turns real bad - wind, rain and clouds come over very quickly. We then head to the surf shops at Torquay and buy a few goodies and then home. Great day and break 24 down. I think 30 by the end of the month is realistic as I have a few days off towards the end and then I reckon I'm looking good for 50.
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Break 22 & 23 - Gunnmatta & St Andrews
Sunday 6th March and it's a beautiful Autumn day in Melbourne and one of the best days we have had in weeks. The temperature is expected in high 20s, the sun is out, the skies are blue and the surf forecast is good. Sam has headed down the West Coast with a mate and his mates dad and so today I am off solo. I decide I will head down the East Coast and Gunnamatta is my destination of choice. "Gunna" is renowned as one of Victoria's most reliable beach breaks and for short board riders in Melbourne, probably the destintaion of choice most weekends. From my place it's about 80-90 mins and I head off about 8.45.
At about 10.15 or so I am getting out of my car at Gunnamatta and the place is packed. The second car park near the surf club is packed - 60-70 cars I reckon and I head to check the surf. There's plenty of people on the beach because it's such a great day but there are also about 40-50 surfers spread out over 3 breaks up and down the beach. The forecast has been spot on - 2 to 3 foot, north easter wind and good conditions.
Gunna in my view is one those waves for experienced surfers. Even on a day like today the waves have some power and there are rips running up and down the beach. I pick my mark on the beach to head out and today it's pretty easy getting out the back if you take your time and wait for breaks between sets, which are quite reasonable. I find a spot which is not right out the back, just about 10-15 meters short of that and wait for my wave. It's a frustrating next 20 mins as I nearly get on to a few, just fall off the back and catch a ripper only just as I'm getting up a voice on the inside yells "whoa! it's mine mate" and I drop off the back. I paddle around looking for some space and then a set comes through. I let the first couple go and then set myself for the third - it forms up and I catch the clean end of the wave as it starts to break going left, I'm up and the wave pushed me left and away I go down the line and then just as suddenly as I'm up and away, the wave dies out and I turn out. I paddle around and let the gun surfers around me catch a few and then I finally get on to one, which is a reform from out the back but I manage to go left down the line and then turn more straight on as it reforms and it takes me nearly all the way to beach. At this point I have been out here about 45 mins and I decide to head in and take advantage of the great weather and try a surf at Rye.
I get changed with the intention of going to Rye beach but on the way I see the sign for St. Andrews and think well why not try there. St. Andrews is further west down the same beach stretch of coast as Gunna and about a 10 minute drive, albeit a bit windy and confusing. I get to St. Andrews and the conditions are identical although not as crowded and the waves look slightly more benign. St Andrews is classic beach break but with rocks around the entry to the water and there are some clear gates to go out from here. You walk down through the dunes and it's a great stretch of beach. I head out through a sand gate between the rocks, waiting for a break in the waves and then I'm off paddling. Nice paddle out the back of about 50-60 meters and I just sit and wait for a good wave. The off-shore wind seems slightly stringer and the waves are holding up a bit and it means they are just not forming up as you expect. There are some good surfers out and I'm the only bloke on a longboard in my area - there are three breaks working across the beach and the surfers are quite well spread out.
I have been out about 20 mins and not had any luck, fallen of the back of a few and probably not taken my chances on quite a few and then along comes my wave of the day - I get up quickly and head straight as the waves breaks in front, it then reforms and I turn up and down the face heading right and it takes me all the way to the beach. A great ride and I decide to call it quits and head home.
St Andrew's is a good choice of beach when Gunna is crowded and conditions are good - as the conditions are nearly the same but you have less crowds.
A successful day and I'm pretty happy with two breaks in one day and I think I need 30 breaks down at the end of March to be on track.
At about 10.15 or so I am getting out of my car at Gunnamatta and the place is packed. The second car park near the surf club is packed - 60-70 cars I reckon and I head to check the surf. There's plenty of people on the beach because it's such a great day but there are also about 40-50 surfers spread out over 3 breaks up and down the beach. The forecast has been spot on - 2 to 3 foot, north easter wind and good conditions.
Gunna in my view is one those waves for experienced surfers. Even on a day like today the waves have some power and there are rips running up and down the beach. I pick my mark on the beach to head out and today it's pretty easy getting out the back if you take your time and wait for breaks between sets, which are quite reasonable. I find a spot which is not right out the back, just about 10-15 meters short of that and wait for my wave. It's a frustrating next 20 mins as I nearly get on to a few, just fall off the back and catch a ripper only just as I'm getting up a voice on the inside yells "whoa! it's mine mate" and I drop off the back. I paddle around looking for some space and then a set comes through. I let the first couple go and then set myself for the third - it forms up and I catch the clean end of the wave as it starts to break going left, I'm up and the wave pushed me left and away I go down the line and then just as suddenly as I'm up and away, the wave dies out and I turn out. I paddle around and let the gun surfers around me catch a few and then I finally get on to one, which is a reform from out the back but I manage to go left down the line and then turn more straight on as it reforms and it takes me nearly all the way to beach. At this point I have been out here about 45 mins and I decide to head in and take advantage of the great weather and try a surf at Rye.
I get changed with the intention of going to Rye beach but on the way I see the sign for St. Andrews and think well why not try there. St. Andrews is further west down the same beach stretch of coast as Gunna and about a 10 minute drive, albeit a bit windy and confusing. I get to St. Andrews and the conditions are identical although not as crowded and the waves look slightly more benign. St Andrews is classic beach break but with rocks around the entry to the water and there are some clear gates to go out from here. You walk down through the dunes and it's a great stretch of beach. I head out through a sand gate between the rocks, waiting for a break in the waves and then I'm off paddling. Nice paddle out the back of about 50-60 meters and I just sit and wait for a good wave. The off-shore wind seems slightly stringer and the waves are holding up a bit and it means they are just not forming up as you expect. There are some good surfers out and I'm the only bloke on a longboard in my area - there are three breaks working across the beach and the surfers are quite well spread out.
I have been out about 20 mins and not had any luck, fallen of the back of a few and probably not taken my chances on quite a few and then along comes my wave of the day - I get up quickly and head straight as the waves breaks in front, it then reforms and I turn up and down the face heading right and it takes me all the way to the beach. A great ride and I decide to call it quits and head home.
St Andrew's is a good choice of beach when Gunna is crowded and conditions are good - as the conditions are nearly the same but you have less crowds.
A successful day and I'm pretty happy with two breaks in one day and I think I need 30 breaks down at the end of March to be on track.
Friday, February 25, 2011
Break 21- Urquart's Bluff
Sunday 19th February and the day awakes as a pretty nice day and surf forecast is good too. Sam and I are "batching it" this weekend with Sue away. Sam is tired and sleeps in till about 10.30 and we don't hit the road till nearly 11.00 am and we are heading to the west coast again as I need to go to Anglesea to pick up something I left in cafe the week before. As we get closer to Geelong the wind and weather start to change and I am feeling no so optimistic about the surf prospects.
We get to Anglesea and we decide to try urquarts bluff - it's probably the third time in recent weeks we are having a look there. Driving along the magnificant greta ocean road it does not look great in the water - the wind has blown out the surf and it's pretty messy. Urquarts bluff is protected by a large rock bluff (surprise, surprise!!) and I think it may be ok. We arrive and there are surferes out but it's a little messy. We decide to head out away.
There is a strong rip in the water dragging you down the beach away from the point and Sam and I watch surfers entering the water towards the bluff end of the beach. We do likewise and start going out. It's very messy and most waves are on the reform, rather than clean. I head out the back and I manage to catch four waves in about 30-40 mins of surfing - I have to come in twice and head back out though as I have been dragged down the beach. The wave is a righ breaking wave but today the rides are pretty short. I get two good waves where I manage to go cleanly down and across and face and turn out the back of the wave - neither are particularly long rides but I was up quickly and enjoyed the rides. Sam has a fairly frustrating time just getting out amongst the mess, but lets me know that he got a couple of rides in the whitewater.
Urquarts Bluff is a pretty little spot and worth a visit but I wouldn't write home about the waves and that's perhaps why in the surf guides it tends to get only a passing mention at best.
29 breaks to go and 24 weekends left. It will be touch and go I think and I need to have a week off work I think to make it happen.
We get to Anglesea and we decide to try urquarts bluff - it's probably the third time in recent weeks we are having a look there. Driving along the magnificant greta ocean road it does not look great in the water - the wind has blown out the surf and it's pretty messy. Urquarts bluff is protected by a large rock bluff (surprise, surprise!!) and I think it may be ok. We arrive and there are surferes out but it's a little messy. We decide to head out away.
There is a strong rip in the water dragging you down the beach away from the point and Sam and I watch surfers entering the water towards the bluff end of the beach. We do likewise and start going out. It's very messy and most waves are on the reform, rather than clean. I head out the back and I manage to catch four waves in about 30-40 mins of surfing - I have to come in twice and head back out though as I have been dragged down the beach. The wave is a righ breaking wave but today the rides are pretty short. I get two good waves where I manage to go cleanly down and across and face and turn out the back of the wave - neither are particularly long rides but I was up quickly and enjoyed the rides. Sam has a fairly frustrating time just getting out amongst the mess, but lets me know that he got a couple of rides in the whitewater.
Urquarts Bluff is a pretty little spot and worth a visit but I wouldn't write home about the waves and that's perhaps why in the surf guides it tends to get only a passing mention at best.
29 breaks to go and 24 weekends left. It will be touch and go I think and I need to have a week off work I think to make it happen.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Break 20 - Sunnymeade Beach (Airey's Inlet)
Sunday 13th February and its a pretty ordinary sort of summer day. It's about 17 degrees, grey, with expected rain then a few sunny breaks in the afternoon - temperature expected to get up to about 23/24 degrees. We decide to focus on the prospect of sunny breaks and head to the West Coast. I am thinking we will go to Urquarts Bluff which is on past Anglesea and should take us about 1.5 to 2.0 hours. Today Sam, Susan and I are all going and I am hoping for some waves, although forecast is not fantastic - wind south westerly, conditions expected to be messy and waves to 1 meter.
We head off about 10.30 and at about 12.15 we are heading through Anglesea and the forecast looks pretty accurate as we drive through - its messy and not very attractive. We get to Urquarts Bluff and it's hopeless - crowded with a Union picnic gathering and hopeless surf. We then head onto Fairhaven and it's pretty ordinary there as well. We drive back towards Anglesea and decide to check out Airey's Inlet, we stop near the lighthouse and it's not looking great. We head back in the car and then as we head out of Airey's we decide to check out a dirt road and see what, if any beach, is down there. We get out at the car park at then end of the road and lo and behold in the water are three or four surfers getting a few waves on a beach with a right hand point break - the beach is called Sunnymeade.
Sunnymeade is not in my surf guide books and it turns out to be really great little spot. Sunnymeade has a winding 400 meter walk through bush down to a beach, which is set against spectacular red cliffs and the bush background. The waves are breaking out at the point over a sandy bottom and there are some fun, right handers with quite good rides and waves about 2 foot to maybe the odd, very odd 3 foot.
Sam and I head out and within minutes I get onto a great little wave - up quickly, head right and along the face, turning right and up to extend the wave and then out the back - Yohooooooooooo. A great way to start. Sam gets a couple of waves and then I get two more - one is probably 1 foot I reckon but I really enjoy the wave it's clean and I just cut along the face and sit on top before tumbling off the end. In about 30-40 mins I get 4 good waves in a spectacular setting. The water is beautiful and clear and the sun is out - just perfect.
After the surf we head into Anglesea for something to eat and Sam insists we go to Ocean Corner - which as you might guess is right on the corner, opposite the beach in Anglesea. The food is pretty good, great pies and salad rolls and Sam has calamari and chips which he raves about. Another day over and new break found - always good to find a protected surf in a SW wind. Looks like it would be best on a low to mid tide, which is when we were there.
We head off about 10.30 and at about 12.15 we are heading through Anglesea and the forecast looks pretty accurate as we drive through - its messy and not very attractive. We get to Urquarts Bluff and it's hopeless - crowded with a Union picnic gathering and hopeless surf. We then head onto Fairhaven and it's pretty ordinary there as well. We drive back towards Anglesea and decide to check out Airey's Inlet, we stop near the lighthouse and it's not looking great. We head back in the car and then as we head out of Airey's we decide to check out a dirt road and see what, if any beach, is down there. We get out at the car park at then end of the road and lo and behold in the water are three or four surfers getting a few waves on a beach with a right hand point break - the beach is called Sunnymeade.
Sunnymeade is not in my surf guide books and it turns out to be really great little spot. Sunnymeade has a winding 400 meter walk through bush down to a beach, which is set against spectacular red cliffs and the bush background. The waves are breaking out at the point over a sandy bottom and there are some fun, right handers with quite good rides and waves about 2 foot to maybe the odd, very odd 3 foot.
Sam and I head out and within minutes I get onto a great little wave - up quickly, head right and along the face, turning right and up to extend the wave and then out the back - Yohooooooooooo. A great way to start. Sam gets a couple of waves and then I get two more - one is probably 1 foot I reckon but I really enjoy the wave it's clean and I just cut along the face and sit on top before tumbling off the end. In about 30-40 mins I get 4 good waves in a spectacular setting. The water is beautiful and clear and the sun is out - just perfect.
After the surf we head into Anglesea for something to eat and Sam insists we go to Ocean Corner - which as you might guess is right on the corner, opposite the beach in Anglesea. The food is pretty good, great pies and salad rolls and Sam has calamari and chips which he raves about. Another day over and new break found - always good to find a protected surf in a SW wind. Looks like it would be best on a low to mid tide, which is when we were there.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)